rrTV-PHOTO   New HD TV
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 722 ONLINE 28 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
3 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )     3     NEXT    >> ]12081 viewsPOST REPLY
Revolution Models . CarbonXtreme . Midland Helicopters

.
.
After Market Accessories > Removing Anodising
 
 
pr1malr8ge
Heliman
Location: NorthWest IN, USA

I have been anodizing allu parts for paintball guns for a few years now..


Lye is the best way to remove anodizing with out severly changing the tollerances of the metal..

I believe a products called RedDevil its a sortof draino will also do the trick..



As far as wiping it away.. thats about all it is..

How ever be warned it TAKES a while for the lye to kick in but left to long in the solution will actuly stat eating the metal away.. so what you do is soak it.. [you should see foam on the top of the water which means the lye is working] ever 5 minutes or so take the part out of lye and whipe it off with a paper towle.

Just so you know any action of removing anodizing will pit the alliminum and it will oxodize.. You need to either polish it or beed blast and then seal the part.
05-31-2004 Over year old.
 
 
kauaison
Senior Heliman
Location: Alameda, CA

not just a coloring

maybe re-dyeing is the route, i found with muriatic acid that the Alluminum will instantly dissolve leaving only an anodized shell (early attemps at deanodizing)...showing me that the anodizing process really does chemically harden the metal making it stiffer and chemical resistant, it is not just a coloring like many think...

so bring on all the non-matching colored anodized parts
05-31-2004 Over year old.
 
 
pr1malr8ge
Heliman
Location: NorthWest IN, USA

Yes anodizing creates an anodic/oxide layer ontop of the aluminum.. This is actuly stronger then the surface aluminum it self. It can be 10x or even stronger depending on the thickness of the layer compared to raw aluminum.

You mentioned muric acid leaving a shell.. I find that hard to believe as it would have desolved with the acid it self also..

As far as re-dyeing that is not is a perk in anodizing as the layer grown is very porus and as soon as it grown it will not close unless it is heated above room temp.. so dip your freshly anodize part in a waterbased dye allow the porus anodic layer to obsorb the dye then close the layer to lock in the color in a steam bath..


By the way anodizing if anyone wants to do it.. IS A PITA. time consuming and can bring great satisfaction when a part comes out looking GREAT...
05-31-2004 Over year old.
 
 
kauaison
Senior Heliman
Location: Alameda, CA

well after a few minutes of the Acid bubbling, i took it out, thats how i got the 'anodized' shell.
05-31-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Foxden
Key Veteran
Location: Port Charlotte, FL. USA

reddragon

Dude the Greesed Lightning (full Strength) works awesome, I cleaned the bottom of a TT fan that was anodized blue in 5 minutes, no rubbing scrubbing or brushing.

Clyde
05-31-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
jerrythercpilot
Veteran
Location: --South Florida --

Jcadwell is correct Easy off CONTAINS Lye. But go to the area in the supermarket and you should find drain cleaner in powdered form which is powdered Sodium Hydroxide. Works very well.But be careful you MUST remove the Aluminum piece from the solution immediately after you notice that all of the anodize is removed. If left long enough in the solution, the piece WILL disappear.

I chemically polish the pieces with Phosphoric Acid (OSPHO).

Glass Beed Peening is good but you will end up with a shotpeened surface, not the original machined surface. If thats OK with you, then go ahead.

Also, if you want to anodize at home, these guys have all the stuff you need. Caswell has it too but they "package" the stuff in kits etc and charge much more.

http://sciencelab.com/

Light travels faster than sound, thats why some people appear so bright UNTIL you hear them speak.
06-05-2004 Over year old.
 
 
zar9
Heliman
Location: Maryland

Thanks Foxden...
Greased Lightning Works fast and with out problems .
Everybody else, you really should try it!!
06-06-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Jared J
Senior Heliman
Location: VA

I've been trying to get the color off a servo arm with Greased lightning and it won't come off.
06-06-2004 Over year old.
 
 
DHDaniel
Senior Heliman
Location: Houston Texas Area

Anodizing removal

I have several times with Great success Used Easy-Off, here is my trick, Take the part and wrap it in foil and heat it up in the oven or a small toaster oven, use a low heat setting 150-200 is ample, let it heat for 15-20 minutes and then take it and put the Foil and part in a
old pot or container and spray the easy off on Liberally. I then fold the foil up and make a sealed up pouch , Holds the heat in well,
Usually takes 30-45 minutes to work, I have used it on header tank
brackets, Head buttons, anti-rotation brackets, etc


Dave

Predator60,Falcon50,HawkSport,Raven30
06-06-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
gunnell_s
Senior Heliman
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS

I have an anodizing operation I use to anodize parts for customers vehicles. I get a stripper made just for removing anodize from parts from Caswell. You can buy a package of it to make like 6 gallons after dilluting. Works very well.

JUST REMEMBER!
Anodizing is done for a purpose besides just looks! Even the natural looking aluminum parts on your heli are anodized clear. The anodizing seals the aluminum to prevent corrosion AND to keep the aluminum from conducting electricity (static or other) In a helicopter, an electric charge could cause trouble in the electronics and cause a headache.

Scott
10-12-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Hercdriver7777
Senior Heliman
Location: South Carolina

I find that my Dynatron Hi Torque starter will remove the blue anodizing off the head block on my X-Spec with no trouble at all!

Good Flying!!
10-12-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
gsxrboy
Heliman
Location:

Hi what would you use to remove anodise if it was horizontal (liquid will run off) & too big to fit in an oven or bead blast? thanks
11-07-2004 Over year old.
 
 
JCadwell
Key Veteran
Location: Richland WA/ Morro Bay, CA

Put it in a plastic tub of lye and warm water. WEAR GLOVES AND GOGGLES. Rub the piece under the water. It will come right off.

Thanks, John Cadwell
11-07-2004 Over year old.
 
 
gsxrboy
Heliman
Location:

I can't put it in a tub! What is this 'easy off' (sodium hydroxide). What's it used for in general? has it got another name?
11-08-2004 Over year old.
 
 
JCadwell
Key Veteran
Location: Richland WA/ Morro Bay, CA

Red Devil Lye (available in the cleaning section of a supermarket or hardware store) will work just fine. Mix up a solution of lye and warm water and use a sponge to blot it on and off. It isn't going to take much to take off the anodizing. Don't get any on your skin. Rinse the part well when done. Are you trying to take the anodizing off a tailboom or something?

Thanks, John Cadwell
11-08-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Sprtrooper
Heliman
Location: New Jersey

GSXRboy- Ahh a Sportbike rider like myself. Had to sell her when we had our first baby.

Easy off - Supermarket sold Oven Cleaner, as opposed to your own home made concoctions.

I am gonna have to look into this. All the parts I want come in blue. I like Red. Quick UK rulez!
02-09-2005 Over year old.
 
 
cforcht
Key Veteran
Location: Chelsea in BFE Iowa

i have found another product that removes anodizing. it works better than the lye. its a product made by dynaflux its called HTR-30 Heat Tint Remover its used for removing the discoloration caused when tig welding stainless steel. this stuff rips off anodizing like theres no tomorrow. and it doesnt appear to attack the aluminum after the anodizing is gone. i stripped an entire R50 boom in under 5 minutes. and it went right from rinsing to polishing. nothing needed in between. its highly recommended to do it outdoors though. this stuff will strip a pop can in seconds. and leave a nice shiny silver pop can behind. you can get it from most local welding supply outlets. usually the ones who sell commercial welders like lincoln or miller.

heres a link http://www.dynaflux.com/pages/produ...crip/CR790.html



[b]heli flyer by day, custom making cnc heli parts by night[/b]
02-27-2005 Over year old.
 
 
twjoyce
Heliman
Location: Sturtevant, WI. 53177

Anno removal

I sure like the sound of this stuff. The Red Devil Lye is no longer on the market and the Drano is awful slow and really does attack the metal if not watched constantly. How did you apply the HTR-30? Did you dilute/mix it with water? And if so what ratio did you use. Thanks! Tom
01-04-2007 Over year old.
 
 
gunnell_s
Senior Heliman
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS

Go to Caswell website and order the anodizing stripper, its is made for this and wont mess up your part. They sell to hobby anodizers and sell professional chemicals in smaller quantities.
01-05-2007 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
DS 8717
rrProfessor
Location: Here wishing i was somewhere else

Do you have their link or adress.DOUG
01-05-2007 Over year old.
 
 
3 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )     3     NEXT    >> ]12081 viewsPOST REPLY
HeliProz . ZoomsHobbies . HeliHobby

.
.
After Market Accessories > Removing Anodising
  UPDATE SCREEN   PRINT TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Tuesday, October 7 - 11:11 pm - Copyright © 2000 - 2008 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie