rrTV-PHOTO   New HD TV
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 590 ONLINE 26 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
1 page740 viewsPOST REPLY
Autography FlightPower . Advantage Hobby . Revolution Models

.
.
e-Electric Motors & Controllers > Kontronik-Tango motor question...
 
 
coop
Senior Heliman
Location: Bainbridge, NY

I have one of these motors, it is new, never used, there seems to be alot of endplay of the armature from one end of the motor to the other, enough so that the armature will hit the mounting screws on the endplate,( on the inside), on one end, and touch the field windings on the other. I did notice the bearing looked like it was not seated fully in the drive end of the motor, I was able to seat it so it was flush, that solved the problem of the screws making contact with the armature, but I still have enough endplay in the other direction to make contact with the windings. I could seat the drive gear against the front bearing, this would not allow the armature to move backward, just wondering if this is a normal scenerio?....Coop
05-31-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Eddi E. aus G.
Senior Heliman
Location: Gerlingen. Germany.

If it's for the Silence (the other post, ya know?), there are possibly the same distance "rings" (what do you call them correctly? shims?) missing as with my kit ... or the screws are a bit too long. The motor should be ok the way you describe it (when the bearings are in place, that is).
I had no problems with only the motor, but when I mounted it the screws blocked inside.
Earlier versions of the motor hat a thicker front/endplate so everything was fine. In between ther was a fibreglass distance plate enclosed then they supplied shorter screws and no distance plate.
The latest I heard from VARIO was that Kontronik must have changed the front/endplates without telling it to VARIO so there are some kits out which won't fit.
They sent me those shims without charge the time I asked.

Born to fly. Forced to work.
05-31-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
coop
Senior Heliman
Location: Bainbridge, NY

Eddi...Yes, this is out of the Silence...I guess I am going to try it the way it is, like I said, I seated the front bearing into the end plate so it is flush, this moved the armature back far enough to clear the screws. And by putting the pinion gear on upside down, this allows me to put the shoulder of the gear up against the bearing, doing this will not allow the armature to move rearward and make contact with the windings. Just seems odd to me that there would be this much play front to back of the armature in the motor, I still think there must be a shim missing inside the motor, if I could get it apart, I would put a nylon spacer on the end of the armature, between the armature and end plate. I haven't fiquired out how it comes apart, I think the endplates are screwed into the outer housing, I don't want to ruin it, I'm sure it will work as is..Thanks for the reply.....Coop
05-31-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Eddi E. aus G.
Senior Heliman
Location: Gerlingen. Germany.

If I recall correctly the pinion gear IS meant to be mountet upside down, the screws away from the motor... Yep, that way it's drawn in my manual... way to go.
Did you get an extra main gear with your kit?
With mine they claimed having changed the gear ratio ... the original one doesn't fit anymore with the pinion gear provided.

Born to fly. Forced to work.
05-31-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
coop
Senior Heliman
Location: Bainbridge, NY

Eddi....I mounted the pinion gear with the screws towards the motor, the shoulder towards the endplate. I got one pinion gear, 23 tooth, and 2 main gears, a 58 tooth and a 65 tooth, and I'm not sure which one is the correct one to use, I think it is the 58 tooth, I think that one came with the motor. I got this kit from a guy on RunRyder, we did some swapping, and I think I am missing some info for all of this.....Coop
05-31-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Eddi E. aus G.
Senior Heliman
Location: Gerlingen. Germany.

The one with less teeth is the right one, I think. Was the same for me, one main-gear came with the kit, the other (and recommended) one with the motor and pinion gear. Didn't count the teeth yet, and now theyr´e inside my Hughes ... Some sheet of paper said that combination was better adaptet to the characteristics of the motor.
Hope you'll have as much fun with the machine as I have!

Born to fly. Forced to work.
05-31-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Eddi E. aus G.
Senior Heliman
Location: Gerlingen. Germany.

One other thing: the main gear and the tail gear need much patience to put together, but it's definitely worth taking your time -- when not set up properly, theyr'e very loud (nice screeching sound) and will wear out their teeth very fast, when adjusted correctly with the shims you won't hear almost any noise from them and they seem to last forever.
If your Silence is not silent (you should hear the swish of both fans and the turbine-sound of the motor almost only), it's almost certainly the gears at the tail drive.

Born to fly. Forced to work.
06-01-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
coop
Senior Heliman
Location: Bainbridge, NY

Eddi...Ok, I'll try the small one first. I did spend some time re-doing the gear mesh of the gear boxes,( they had been already assembled by the previous owner), and I think I have them very close to perfect. Another guestion...What should the dimension be from the centerline of the servo horn, to the centerline of the ball link ball on the horns, ( 3 cyclics)? I seem to be getting to much throw, I would like to keep the ATV's in the radio at 100%, instead of dialing them back to get my travel. I am running a pitch curve of -10 to +10, I notice the adjustment of the washout arm is critical to prevent it from binding and/or popping off the ball . Thanks for all your help.....Coop
06-01-2003 Over year old.
 
 
Eddi E. aus G.
Senior Heliman
Location: Gerlingen. Germany.

The dimension by the book is ca. 65 mm. After I found the hovering position of the swashplate I had to readjust for the servo arms to be horizontal in a hover.
If setting up a flybar head and for 3D setup may differ (0° pitch at servo center or whatever one prefers).
Throw is definitely too much in standard setup. You may try the shortest possible servo arm, but I don't think that will be enough.
I use standard servo arms (the linkage is almost vertical that way)
and my pitch curve is set from std. -82/0/82 on Graupner/JR MC 16
to -55/0/40. Dual rate is set to 65 % on both elevator and aileron.
You've to watch the washout arm carefully.
That's ok for me with the flybarless head, being a semi-beginner and not into 3D. Collective is limited to -2°/+10° that way, no blocking in either direction at full cyclic.
Keep asking, no prob

Oh, and ... if you don´t already have done so, take a careful look at the motor mounting plate before mounting it ... according to the manual it has to be screwed into the holes closer to the main shaft ... with the new main and pinion gear provided that won't fit, I had to learn the hard way ... took me about an hour to get it disassembled again ...

Born to fly. Forced to work.
06-01-2003 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
1 page740 viewsPOST REPLY
CarbonXtreme . Midland Helicopters . HeliProz

.
.
e-Electric Motors & Controllers > Kontronik-Tango motor question...
  UPDATE SCREEN   PRINT TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Tuesday, October 14 - 2:49 pm - Copyright © 2000 - 2008 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie