Gregor99
Elite Veteran
Location: Western Wa
| The web pages tells what headspeed WILL be. With the exception of efficiency and load loss, which need to be measured with a tach. The estimate I've heard is your actual headspeed will be between 70% and 80% of what's calculated.
As for setting pitch and throttle curves, it varies. Pitch curves are almost as ways set the same.
-3 to max+
Stunt1 max- to max+
Stunt2 max- to max+
With "max" being the maximum mechanical limits of the head without binding. There are some cases where running less than max is desirable. Some heads can do +-13 degrees or more, but don't have the power system to handle that disc load. Reducing to something closer to +-10 keeps the power system from being bogged down excessively and gives the collective more granular control.
Occasionally there are some minor variances like using an S curve on in idle-up to make it more sensitive around mid-stick. Kind of Expo in reverse and applied to the collective. When the total range has been reduced to avoid bogging, this can restore a the "snap" to the collective for pilots that are used to a more responsive left stick.
Throttle curves are what vary the most from pilot to pilot. Here's how I set mine and why.
Normal 0 50 85 95 100
Stunt1 100 95 90 95 100
Stunt2 100 100 100 100 100
I mostly fly in stunt1 and switch in the air. Having normal a normal mode throttle curve that is close to your idle up mode at hover makes the switch between modes more seemless.
I usally fly in idle up, but when I was flying mostly in normal mode I liked having the extra headspeed in normal mode because it makes it easier to land in gusty wind.
These days I usually land in idle up. Hover about a foot or two off the ground, I hit throttle hold and glide down. Seems to work well regardless of wind conditions.
For the most part hitting your target headspeed usaually means selecting the right pinion rather than tweaking with throttle curves. While some adjustment can be done with the throttle curves, the motor and electronic run more efficiently above 80% so its best to tune your setup with the pinion first.
For me tuning the headspeed is about balancing battery run time vs helicopter responsiveness and stability. I like a slightly higher headspeed as it makes the heli more stable in wind and the heli's response tends to follow my inputs much more precisely. At the lower head speeds, the heli will bob up and down and tends to be a little sloppy and docile. Lower headspeeds are good for learning, but I found them a little frustrating as my skills progressed. Not saying there's anything wrong with longer run times or a more docile heli. Its just that I prefer better wind performance and a more accurate response from the heli.
Canton MO backyard flying club
West Coast Chapter |
