Foxden
Key Veteran
Location: Port Charlotte, FL. USA
| If you remove the main gear, with a bit of finess you can remove the entire clutch bell assembly including the bearing block without loosening the engine, patience is a virtue and I've done it twice, once in New Orleans at a FF on the bench and once with our machine to regrease the starter one way in the clutch, after about 8 months we started to get a squeal and it was identified to the oneway and some grease took care of that.
I'm gonna have Rusty send me another starter shaft and starter cone and again check the tolerances.
Vteckz, can you please do us a favor and measure your start shaft OD and starter cone ID and report what you find, with this one set screw design and the "D" cut into the shaft the grub screw should be pulling the rear of the cone up tight around the circumfrence of the rear of the shaft and the grub byting down into the "D" cut of the shaft should be enough to secure it in place, unless the grub is not making flush contact with the shaft and it's not getting the full force to keep it in place.
Again if you don't have a 4mm tap to run thru the start cone hole you can always thread a 4mm bolt thru and make sure the threads are "clean" and verify the 4x4 grub screw is penetraiting the cone at a 90 degree angle and it's centered in the cone.
Let's try to figure out what exactly the problem is
Clyde Fox
Port Charlotte FL
RJX of USA Field Rep
Team Rotorworkz
Morgan Fuel Rep |
I learned my lesson and now always make sure it turns free first.
