rrTV-PHOTO   New HD TV
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 306 ONLINE 42 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
1 page428 viewsPOST REPLY
MaxAmps.com . HeliDirect . PowerHelis

.
.
e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Swift main blade grips
 
 
3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

Ok, I got my new feathering shaft in today and have the blade grips on and tightened up. Ok my question is how smooth should they move??? With both grips bolted up they DO NOT bind but when you move the grip it stays in that position until you move it again. I also notice when you have both blade grips on and tightened up when you move them they move freely but you can feel a slight ratchity feel when you move them. I have checked all bearings and they move free I've made sure the thrust bearings where in correct and greased up I also made sure to put a little greese on the danmpers befor I put them in and I made sure the feathering shaft moved freely in the head. When you only have one grip mounted on the feathering shaft it's as smooth as a baby's butt. Like I said if you mount both you get that rachitiy feeling. The only thing I can think of is the little brass looking spacer's that fit against the blade grip's and the dampers might be causing the binding. I made sure the little lip part of the brass spacer went toward the bearing like it said in the book. Could it be the dampers??? maybe to thick and the brass spacer is binding on it or something??? Any ideas??????????

<<HeliFreak>>
05-25-2008 02:59 AM
 
 
laughingstill
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, Fl, USA

Are the main grips CNC? is the feathering spindle solid steel? Are the parts different?

3DMP-E, Logo 6003D, Logo103D Carbon and Trex 450se Flyin Firefighter
05-25-2008 04:21 AM
 
 
Blade_Master1
Veteran
Location: Canada

I don't own a swift but they should move freely
no ratchety feeling at all

make sure your bearings are fully seated and any washers are in the right place
I would disassemble the grips and make there isn't any dirt or plastic in between the bearings make sure they are fully seated including the dampners.

JM2C's :)
05-25-2008 05:01 AM
 
 
3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

All parts are stock on the head. The feathering shaft is the updated steel shaft. I've took the head apart again and checked everything again and all seems fine & all bearings are smooth. The trouble starts when you tighten both bolts that hold the grips on. i don't know if all the swift feathering shafts are the same or not but its like its to short. you can bolt one grip on and its as smooth as a butter. When you go and put the other grip on where the feathering shaft slides through the thrust bearing it likes a little coming through the bearing. Instead of it being flush with the top of the thrust bearing it is recessed inside the bearing. Are they supposed to be this way??

<<HeliFreak>>
05-25-2008 07:57 AM
 
 
rjhpilot91
Senior Heliman
Location: Mays Landing, NJ USA

My brother and I just bought swift kits and both had the same problem. Apparently there is some sort of manufacturing defect with the new solid steel spindles. Both of us got new ones shipped courtesy of century as they are acknowledging this issue. We both had the exact same symptoms and no amount of working the spindle fixed the issue until installing the new ones.
05-26-2008 03:46 AM
 
 
3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

Quote 
My brother and I just bought swift kits and both had the same problem. Apparently there is some sort of manufacturing defect with the new solid steel spindles. Both of us got new ones shipped courtesy of century as they are acknowledging this issue. We both had the exact same symptoms and no amount of working the spindle fixed the issue until installing the new ones

Do you know what exactly the problem is??? I just got a new one from them the other day. They did acknowledge the problem when I talked to them. Do you think I might have gotten another bad one?? What about the length of the shaft like I was talking about as mine seems to short after you bolt one grip on and slide the other one on the shaft like a little bit coming through the bearing is this right??

<<HeliFreak>>
05-26-2008 04:34 AM
 
 
3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

Well, I've took the head apart and put it back together about 7 times tonight. It acts like the feathering shaft is to short. I've checked every bearing oiled them and greased the thrust bearings the feathering shaft fits the bearings perfect and rotates very smooth per grip. The trouble start when you tighten both grips when everything is mounted to the head. If you look at the head when tightening the grips you can see the grips moving towards the head and in return the little brass spacers are being pushed into the dampers causing the tight ratchity feeling. So.. I figure I have either got a bad head, bad grip(s), bad head block, or all the above. I like the heli but right now I'm wondering if I made a bad decision because so far its been a pain in my butt. I figure century's gonna get tired of replacing parts and accuse me of just trying to get some freebies. I had to just about give my life story to get the parts I got from them now.

<<HeliFreak>>
05-26-2008 08:31 AM
 
 
rvsixer
Heliman
Location: Central, TX - USA

I had the exact same problem on my new Swift kit, using the CNC hub.

JPC mentioned he trimmed down one side of each dampener JUST a bit with a single-edge razor blade, and also thinned down the brass dampener/bearing bushing a bit (I used a fine pitch file, rotating the bushing every few strokes to keep the face square, and then followed up with a Scotchbrite TM pad to finish).

After I did these two steps, I tightened everything down and its much smoother with no "grinding" feeling in the bearings.

So yes I think the new style feather shaft is a bit short, but have not actually measured things to know for sure.
05-27-2008 02:24 AM
 
 
3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

Quote 
I had the exact same problem on my new Swift kit, using the CNC hub.

JPC mentioned he trimmed down one side of each dampener JUST a bit with a single-edge razor blade, and also thinned down the brass dampener/bearing bushing a bit (I used a fine pitch file, rotating the bushing every few strokes to keep the face square, and then followed up with a Scotchbrite TM pad to finish).

After I did these two steps, I tightened everything down and its much smoother with no "grinding" feeling in the bearings.

So yes I think the new style feather shaft is a bit short, but have not actually measured things to know for sure.


I think it boils down to the feathering shaft being to short. I had thought about shaving down the brass bushings but didn't so I decided to trim down the dampers and trimmed them to much so now I got get some new dampers.. Century need to fix this little problem I think. It's not right having to do this stuff to a new bird. I've owned 4 nitro heli's in my time and never had any problems like I'm having now.

<<HeliFreak>>
05-27-2008 03:14 AM
 
 
jamesppp
Senior Heliman
Location: carrollton georgia usa

Ususlly the problem with the shafts in the new kits is that one side has the bolt hole drilled ecentric to the shaft. Get a longer bolt if necessary and screw just a bolt into each end of the feathering shaft, more than likely one side will have the bolt at a slight angle.
You may be able to tell with the stock bolts but longer ones make it obvious
Call Joe at Heli World. They may need to start checking the shafts they send out in case some of the bad batch winds up in open stock. Good luck
05-27-2008 03:28 AM
 
 
Greybird
Veteran
Location: Davie, Florida

You are right, the shaft is too short. I made little washers that are the same size as the end of the feathering shaft. 1mm thick. Basically lengthened the shaft. That, and trimming the dampers flush with the head fixed the problem.

05-28-2008 11:46 AM
 
 
Greybird
Veteran
Location: Davie, Florida



The washer needs to fit freely in this bearing race.
05-28-2008 12:31 PM
 
 
3d-wanna-b
Heliman
Location: Newport, Ar. U.S.A

Quote 
You are right, the shaft is too short. I made little washers that are the same size as the end of the feathering shaft. 1mm thick. Basically lengthened the shaft. That, and trimming the dampers flush with the head fixed the problem.

That's a nifty little idea you got there... I might just give that a try when I get my new dampers and feathering shaft in.

<<HeliFreak>>
05-28-2008 02:06 PM
 
 
Al Austria
Key Veteran
Location: Gainesville, FL

My post, quoted from another thread:

Quote 

The grips on the all metal head on my 620SE were tight for the first couple flights. Flies just fine, no trimming neccesary. Check out the vid here:

http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t423976p1/

Trimming the dampeners and "extending" the feathering shaft will only effectively loosen your head dampening thus hindering your cyclic performance. Any binding you feel while the heli is sitting static will be insignificant under load in flight. I've got 50+ flights on my Swift 620SE and the dampeners/bearings feel like brand new.

Century Field Rep
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
05-30-2008 04:40 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
1 page428 viewsPOST REPLY
JR-Spektrum . Gyro Hobbies . E-flite

.
.
e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Swift main blade grips
  UPDATE SCREEN   PRINT TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Friday, September 5 - 10:22 am - Copyright © 2000 - 2008 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie