Chuckie
Key Veteran
Location: Crofton Maryland, MHA member
| The gv doesn't like a bad servo arm setup, carb arm setup, or radio atv setup. When you set the low and high if it takes then you are very close.
| Quote |
| It is within limit. it is another thing that head rpm cannot touch 2000 even without GV.
|
Why 2000? If true then something is wrong with your throttle/pitch setup. Set 100% throttle at 3/4 stick position and the motor should be screaming over 2000 at takeoff.   Just joking.
Here is my entire procedure for setting the throttle servo, link length, radio settings, etc. I use the ATG now but this works for the GV1.
1) Mount ball on servo arm at same length as throttle arm on carb. I use outer hole on YS carb arm but for other engines just have the same distance on the servo arm as the carb arm.
2) Set tx so throttle servo is at 50% output. It helps to have a flat throttle curve at 50% that way the tx stick position doesn't matter. On my 14mz I can see the tx stick position as an input and servo output position regardless of the curve selected. I'll just move the throttle stick to get 50% out, same for JR radios.
3) Mount servo arm so you see throttle rod is 90 degree at servo. If using the + servo arm or 6 point arm rotate arm until you find the right position. Install servo screw.
4) Set throttle rod length so servo arm and carb arm are parallel with each other and throttle rod is 90 on each side. Don't worry about the actual carb barrel position at this time.
5) Set Tx ATVs to 100% high and low.
6) Set tx throttle trim to full low. Yes don't use center trim as you need to find and set the kill position. In the tx check trim type for throttle to make sure top of servo throw is not affected by trim position.
7) With the screw snug on the carb arm but a little loose adjust tx ATVs until you can get carb barrel to be fully open and full closed with even number ATVs (it helps to not snap the link onto the carb arm so you can see how the link matches the ball position on each side). Leaving the carb arm snug allows you to adjust the barrel relative to the arm as needed to match the throttle rod link. If the screw is too loose then you could loose the barrel position. With the throttle rod disconnected rotate to tighten the screw, let the barrel reach the end and then hold the arm while fully tightening the screw. Use the barrel stopping point to hold the barrel as you tighten the screw.
8) Rise tx throttle trim 1/3 distance from fully closed to mark on carb (woops this is for YS motors). Or remember you need to raise the trim when you first start the motor to set a good idle.
9) Set throttle kill so carb goes to full closed position.
10) Start engine and adjust tx trim for good idle. Check engine kill feature.
11) Reset governor High and Low or OFF position.
12) Adjust normal throttle curve so you have a "J" curve, at 50% throttle set servo for 35 to 40% (at 40 it should/ may match the mark but don't worry if it doesn't), at 75% throttle the servo can be set for 55 to 65% (depending on what rpm you want for hover with gov off).
**** 12 steps that's a lot. 7 is the hardest part as the barrel always moved on me until I figured this out.
Charles
Please stand by for faster service! |
I have read and re-read dozen other posts on GV1 here and tried to find fault. Still Just can't get the GV1 working N9, rpm dislay shows 50 to 100 rpm when i spin the clutch bell by hand. that means sensor, magnets are fine. flux strength show 90+% for one of the magnets. Did hard reset and re keyed the values. Swcd goes on as I increase the throttle. and swicthes ON and OFF on gear switch.
I did set the ATV to 100%. Re-corrected the servo travel, reset the Idle, High & low values on Gv1 and other seeting as recommended here. I 've checked that servo travel for full carb movement. religiously checked all of chuckies inputs.
driving me nuts...
