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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > RAPTOR 30 Is 2700ma JR pack enough?
 
 
TankDirt
Veteran
Location: illinois

If your going to run the 1500 I would just field charge it after every flight...The more you drain out of the battery,the more voltage drop your going to have..And with spectrum its just not worth the risk...If you have digitals?,That would put an even more load on a marginal at best battery....


There is another option though,If your ar7000 has the quick connect feature then that battery would be fine with no worry....To test if your ar7000 has the QC feature simply turn on your heli(engine off) and unplug your battery and then plug it right back in(fast) And if your reciever boots up instantly then you have the QC feature..But if it still takes 2-5 seconds then you dont have it(test it a few times to be sure)...If you dont have it Horizon will update your recievers to the QC feature for free(you pay to ship it to them,And they pay to ship it back)...And if you do have QC then you can run that battery for about 3 flights with no fear because if you drop down below that certain voltage it will re-boot very fast(it would act like a glitch)....
05-27-2008 11:10 PM
 
 
TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

I run A123's in all my heli's, 2300ma in my Raptors and 4600ma in my Predator Gasser. Capacity really isn't an issue. Only takes 5-10 minutes to charge @ up to 20 amps! Usually I use about 250-300ma per flight in my Raptors just sport flying. The cutoff voltage charge on them are 7.2v which is 1.2v less than lipoly. They come down to 6.6v and stay there for 90% of the discharge. Most servos are happy with that voltage and you only need to regulate the tail.

My vote is for A123's. I like the setup.

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...
05-27-2008 11:49 PM
 
 
Helisonmymind
Senior Heliman
Location: Toronto, Canada

Tank,

I'm going to test my 7000 and see if it's got the qc feature, thanks for the ideas and tip. I'm typing on my bb so I'll have to keep this short.

TooBizzy,

I can relate to your name!

Where do you get your a123 cells? Can I buy a whole receiver pack made up already?

Thanks guys!

Anything worth doing's worth overdoing.
05-28-2008 01:42 AM
 
 
TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

You can buy them premade. But I make my own from Dewalt 36v packs. There are ten cells in each pack. Its very easy to make your own. RCG has some threads that take you thru each step....

Once your set up, you won't go back to the old way. I love the quick charge.

Ha...The Name! My nickname used to be Bizzy in school. Now I'm just Too Bizzy! Not enough hours in a day!

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...
05-28-2008 11:37 AM
 
 
TankDirt
Veteran
Location: illinois

123's are another nice choice,I would still regulate everything though,But lots of people dont..The CC bec would be great for this applacation.....I do belive you need a special charger that can charge 123's,I dont think your regular lipo charger can do it...
05-28-2008 05:26 PM
 
 
TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

I charge my 123's with an Astro flight charger that has 123 capability @ upto 10a. If I really want to get serious, I use my Mastech 3010 that will charge up to 30v @ 20a or 60v @ 10a.

There is also a Lipo Dapter that charges 123's which allows you to use your current charger, such as a Triton.

The only thing I regulate is my gyro and tail servo. The rest of my digitals are all good for 6v which everyone knows are really rated to 7.6v, (A typical 5-cell nicad or nimh setup). So there is no need to regulate everything. I've got planes that have run off a 5 cell setup for years without any problems with the servos.

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...
05-28-2008 09:18 PM
 
 
rexxigpilot
Senior Heliman
Location: florida

Gee, I said the same thing 15± posts back! Was no one listening? BTW Toobizzy, my MASTECH HY3020D works very well also. Direct charge is a great thing.
05-30-2008 12:49 AM
 
 
TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

Quote 
Gee, I said the same thing 15± posts back! Was no one listening?

I heard ya! I was just adding to what you said. Not too many run 123's or they don't advertise the fact... So I like to add my 2 cents when ever I can.

I'm in love with my Mastech! I like how versitile it is. I can charge a big 7s1p A123 on one output @10a and charge 2 lipoly's on the other output using my Tritons as long as I don't go over 10a combined. The Mastech is the best RC investment I've made in awhile.

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...
05-30-2008 08:54 PM
 
 
rexxigpilot
Senior Heliman
Location: florida

I agree! For some reason not too many are aware of the Mastech line of power supplies. I used a Ripmax 20A previously. It was OK, just basic.
05-30-2008 09:02 PM
 
 
trevstaff
New Heliman
Location: Beaver PA

I use the same pack on my titan with digital servos. Totally adequate pack for the raptor.

Trevor
05-31-2008 04:57 PM
 
 
Helisonmymind
Senior Heliman
Location: Toronto, Canada

hey guys,

sorry for the long delay in getting back to you.

tank,

I think my 7000 has the qc feature. when I quickly remove/replace power I regain my cyclic immediately, but the tail servo still goes through the whole power up cycle though..

I finally made up a discharge bulb and fully drained my 2700 and get this: I rechaged at 200mA with a 9mv cutoff and got EXACTLY 2700mA back into it, so the 2700 is fine.

I ordered a couple of JR 4500 4.8V NiMH since they're a direct drop-in, are safe, and have a lot of juice in them which should get me a whole day of flying.

Toobizzy, Rexipilot,

I'm really intrigued by the A123 stuff. What do you mean by direct charge?

I saw someone dissecting a dewalt pack and those cells look really big and heavy. I'm contemplating powering a new plane of mine (Nexstar 6' trainer http://www.hobbiconexstar.com/nexstar-ep/) and wonder how those cells might do as compared to 5S packs. I know this isn't the correct forum, or the correct site for that matter(!), but you guys know a lot about r/c and figured you may be able to shed some light.

If the A123 is the way to go, I may do it in a big way and do it right across the board for all things electrified in my stable.

Anything worth doing's worth overdoing.
06-02-2008 03:13 AM
 
 
Helisonmymind
Senior Heliman
Location: Toronto, Canada

another good power supply

I like my iota 55A. It's not much bigger than a pc p/s, but it packs a whopping 55 amps, it's a beast.

@ $150 it wasn't cheap but has really good overload protection and has tons of overhead if my buddies want to tie in their chargers along with mine. At 55 amps it's tough to load it down!

Anything worth doing's worth overdoing.
06-02-2008 05:13 AM
 
 
TankDirt
Veteran
Location: illinois

Sorry I havent gotten back in awhile...the a123's are fine as long as you have a charger that can charge them(you CANT charge them as a lipo/li-ion) a123 chargers only!...they are big and heavy and have less voltage BUT can be charged/discharged at crazy rates..They should be just fine in the plank,but in the heli I would still recommend a regulated setup if you decide to go with the 123's or the li-ions..its 20 bucks for the CC BEC,why risk it?(dont flame me guys this is IMO)..in the meantime,the 4500's should be fine,make sure you cycle it a few times when you get the pack before you trust it to a whole day of flying.


Happy flying and good luck!

-Cody
06-02-2008 11:17 AM
 
 
TooBizzy
Senior Heliman
Location: Georgetown, Ohio USA

Quote 
Toobizzy, Rexipilot,

I'm really intrigued by the A123 stuff. What do you mean by direct charge?

With the Mastech PS, you manually select the charge voltage and current/amps and the PS takes care of the rest. It will charge at your desired preset constant current (CC mode) until the preset voltage is reached. Then the PS automatically switches to constant voltage (cv mode) and maintains the preset voltage until the current/amps drop to 0.

You can use other chargers such as a Triton as long as you monitor your max volts or use a "Daptor" (Brand name) that goes between your charger and a123 cells. It shuts down the charge when the max volts of the cells your charging is reached.

Please don't take this as a flame, but I've been using A123's unregulated to the swash and throttle for quite some time without an issue. I only regulate the tail servo and gyro. All servos rated at 6v are capable of handling over 7v since the rating is based on a 5 cell system which can charge to 7.6v. I've been running 5 cell setups unregulated on my planks for years with zero servo failures.

P-Gasser Se, Raptor 50 Se Hyper, Raptor 30v2, Trex450se, 3dx450...
06-02-2008 05:09 PM
 
 
Helisonmymind
Senior Heliman
Location: Toronto, Canada

tooBizzy,

thanks for the great explanation, I really appreciate it.

Tank,

Going to wait till I get my 1010c then explore the A123's again.

I'm starting to get over my fear of LIPO, now being loaded to the hilt with battery bunkers, lipo sacks, balancers and what not, so I'll see how I feel about all this stuff when I can actually charge them again.

My JR 2700 now works like a charm. Did a couple tanks yesterday and the voltage bar didn't even budge off the first segment - now that's what I like!

Anything worth doing's worth overdoing.
06-14-2008 08:38 PM
 
 
SpottedCow
Senior Heliman
Location: Whetstone, Arizona

Quote 
I've always wondered if an AA-sized 2700ma is the same as a Sub-C 2700. Isn't mA mA? I tend to agree with you, a C-sized pack seems far more substantial than an AA size doesn't it? It's tempting to build up a smaller AA 2700 6V pack, but if the 4.8V works okay,

Not a good idea.. Sub-C's can deliver more power under load and the AA's might 'cut out' on you.
06-22-2008 04:57 AM
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