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JR-Spektrum . Gyro Hobbies . E-flite

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Flybarless Rotor Head Systems > 600E Head conversion
 
 
rcav8tor
Heliman
Location: Toledo OH USA

Sorry this has probably been covered but i just got my v bar and i need some help converting my head. I have an all metal head i just need to know are you drilling and tapping the washout slider to fix it to the main shaft. Also what links are you using to go from the swash to the grips. Are you purchasing them or making them if they need to be made whats the length. Can i use my metal grips upside down also who's parts for the longer standoffs on the grips. any help or links would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
05-14-2008 02:05 PM
 
 
catfight
Key Veteran
Location: USA

rcav8tor,

I drilled and tapped the washout slider.


Standoffs I got are:

part number 060/17 Ball-end bolt 13.0 mm - M3.0x9 $7.15 from http://www.eastcoastvario.com/

THese will need a small washer underneath the standoff to keep the screw from bottoming out in the blade grip - they work great.


I used some raptor rods I had laying around for the links. I also use the metal grips flipped.

What goes up must come around
05-14-2008 02:54 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
TomC
Veteran
Location: Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia

The Vario ball links work great on the grips. You need ~14mm length to ball centre to line up the control rod vertically. So the Vario 13mm w/1mm washer would be perfect. I used the 10mm ones (cause I had them) w/4mm custom-made plastic washers. If the Vario threaded bolts a still a bit too long for the Trex600 metal grips, you could just grind them down ~1mm.

I think you are better to spend a few $'s and get the mikado swashdriver (M4018 ~$52)imop. The pinned links on the original washout-to-swash links have too much slop and the worse thing you can have in any flybarless setup is slop. The mikado swashdriver clamps itself onto your mast and is a lot more secure and easier to adjust imop.

If you go this way, you will need to replace the inner swash balls since the mikado balls (and the Vario ones, I might add) are a bit bigger. In fact, unless you ream out a trex ball link, it will eventually split on the Vario ball (I know this first hand).

The simplest thing to do is get the mikado trex600 v-bar conversion (~$120) since this will contain everything you need for a slop-free head. These conversions still seem impossible to get right now, so I'd recommend the following shopping list together with using your Trex metal grips (flipped over, for leading edge control);

-Vario 13mm ball-bolts (2 in pack), ~$7 ; http://us.vario-helicopter.biz/shop...oducts_id=34483

From any mikado dealer (say Esprit Models)
- mikado M4018 Swashdriver ~$52
- 2x M1003 swash pivot bolts (2x per pack) ~$7
- M1585 70mm control rods (2 in pack) ~$2
- M1565 2.5mm ball links (10 in pack) ~$5

I found that the mikado control rods were a lot less flexy than the Trex600 rods. The total length on my Swash-to-grip rods (to ball centre is ~95mm.

The only part on the list above that I'm not 100% sure of is the swash pivot bolts. I used ones off an old clamped out logo swash. I'm pretty sure that these should work though, just not 100% sure!

It's also a good idea to have pretty hard dampners. I use the 90 deg ones with the plastic sleeve (Align part HN6061 ~$5).

Do all this and you should have a nice slop-free Trex600 flybarless head. Good luck.

Cheers,
TomC

CX2 2s
Logo10- 3D 5s
Trex600 10s
2x Ion-x, 1x15s DS, 1x15s SS
05-14-2008 10:35 PM
 
 
rcav8tor
Heliman
Location: Toledo OH USA

RE: Thanks

Thanks to Catfight and TomC for all the help.
I think i will try drilling and tapping first but i will get the balls and links to fit. Again thanks for all the info
05-15-2008 10:52 PM
 
 
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Flybarless Rotor Head Systems > 600E Head conversion
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