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HeliHobby . Ron’s HeliProz South . Century Helicopter

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Raven 50, need some pointers
 
 
Furious Predator
Elite Veteran
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

The Raven 50 i ordered to replace my 600N came in yesterday, and i immediately begin assembly.

but i have run into some issues. I would like to know if anyone else has had any of this happen right out of the box.

1) the blade grips. i assembled them as per instructions, but the lock nuts cannot be tightened all the way or else the grips bind against the dampeners.

2) i threw the clutch assembly onto my high point, to find out that its extremely off balance...which isn't a big deal, if it wasn't for the runout. i can watch that thing just wobble around like crazy. i also cant figure out how to get the shoes off so i can balance the bell seperate from the shoes.

3) the washout link that has the brass bushings and slides on the main shaft, is very very tight. it took some work just to get it on, and even after going at it for a while with 1500 grit and oil to enlarge the bushings, its still pretty darn tight.

also, i want to buy the metal fan for this thing, i have heard enough good things about it to make it worth while, and i want to do it while everything is still apart. but other then the fan, is there anything else i have to buy for it? it seems the starting shaft is different.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
04-30-2008 09:40 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Blade_Master1
Veteran
Location: Canada

the clutch bell will seperate with a bit of pressure and push it out

try polishing the main shaft

are you sure the daampners are seated fully they can be a bugger to seat, use alot of auto tranny fluid ( it wont damage the rubber) to lubricate

You can say what you want , Just don't say it here!
04-30-2008 11:13 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Blade_Master1
Veteran
Location: Canada

their aluminum fan is a 50/50 deal it works but for how long till the 1 way fails?

I have 2, 1 dead 1 still going

I just might go back to plastic fan, didn't have any probs with it.

You can say what you want , Just don't say it here!
04-30-2008 11:36 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Dilbeck
Veteran
Location: Springdale Arkansas

Not sure if I understand about the blade grips, There should be 1 small washer between the dampers and the blade grip bearing. As for the shoes separate from the clutch bell I thought they came separate and I balanced them separately. Not so sure of the washout link mine was a little snug but after i worked it up and down some was ok. Does the wash out link when not attached to anything else move freely? The metal fan is installed fairly easily as long as you have a sound way of locking the piston to get it tight. Word of caution here on the backwards threads of the top of the one way bearing to the fan, you dont need hardly any locktite here or you will never get it off! A drop of blue will be sufficient to hold it.

If it doesn't fly sell it!
05-01-2008 12:15 AM
 
 
rcsoar4fun
Veteran
Location: Corpus Christi, TX

The dampeners are a #*$%*&@#& to get seated all the way, but should be smooth enough. Make sure everything is well greased.

The clutch is hard to get balanced correctly on a high point, the threads of the clutch go all the way through, and this makes the cone of the HP a little off center. I chased this forever before I figured out it was the threading on the clutch that threw it off. Stick it on motor, remove the glow plug and check runout that way.

Vote smart, vote RP!
05-01-2008 12:23 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Furious Predator
Elite Veteran
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

thanks guys, i pretty much got it sorted out, but now im having trouble getting the fuel tank and engine in the frames.

i have a YS50, and i cant seem to get the engine to sit high enough for me to instal the pipe, did you guys have to trim the frames at all?

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
05-01-2008 01:00 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Furious Predator
Elite Veteran
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

never mind, i got, i wont even tell you guys what i did wrong, lol

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
05-01-2008 01:15 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Blade_Master1
Veteran
Location: Canada

I have never used a YS 50 but yes you may have to trim a little.

Just to make life easier try this assembly method

* after you have split the upper in half to apply loctite to inner race of the intermediate shafts' bearings.

attach the right side lower frame to the upper frame by finger tightening the bolts.

install engine assembly on lower right side frame again finger tight only.

install fanshroud and fuel tank

now you can install left lower frame and check clearances

once your happy with how everything fits you can go ahead and apply loctite and tighten screws

now you can install pipe, landing skids and front servo tray and tail

hope this helps

You can say what you want , Just don't say it here!
05-01-2008 01:26 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Blade_Master1
Veteran
Location: Canada

let me guess you had the lower frames flipped inside out

You can say what you want , Just don't say it here!
05-01-2008 01:27 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Furious Predator
Elite Veteran
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

Quote 
let me guess you had the lower frames flipped inside out

Yup!

i have this thing sitting here about 90% complete now. but i have run into another snag.

i went to test fit the body, only to find out that the CCPM servo mounts that stick out on the sides interfere with the body.

here is a pic of what i mean.



i plan on flying this thing bone stock before i do any upgrades.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
05-01-2008 04:42 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Ravenhyper50
Senior Heliman
Location: Ottawa

Quote 
i went to test fit the body, only to find out that the CCPM servo mounts that stick out on the sides interfere with the body.



You have to bend the mounts in a little. Its what I had to do
After that no problems rubbing.

SWIFT 550 Carbon, Swift 620SE, DX-7, JR servos
05-01-2008 04:54 AM
 
 
helihell
Heliman
Location: Canada

I used a dremel to grind down the corners of the servo frames.
Didn't have to take off much to make it work and the geometry stays the same.
05-01-2008 05:19 AM
 
 
the Wasp
rrProfessor
Location: Vt

Shawn I hope you like your Raven !!

yes the red Dampeners fatten up a bit once installed in the Rotor Block, I always cut them down a bit, I also use Raptor Red Dampeners cut down, but they need a lot of cutting,,

I don't-know I have mixed feelings about balancing the Raven's Clutch and Bell,, no doubt balancing a Shoe and Bell helps, but would-you think balancing a Clutch Shoe is only good for idling ?, once the engine revs-up and the Shoes start to push out the balance must go off again, and even if the Bell is balanced once the show is fully engaged each Shoe must weigh some-what different, offsetting the balance again,, and even if you balance the Bell who's to say the inside edge of the Liner is true ????

yes I always remove the black coating from the main shaft, I uses 600 grit and some oil,,

I have not yet used that new fan..

Jim
the wife wont let me get a Monkey !!,,, damm, can't have anything
05-01-2008 07:58 AM
 
 
Dilbeck
Veteran
Location: Springdale Arkansas

Interesting about the canopy not fitting right. My canopy snaps right on and just barely touches the servo brackets. No cutting or bending. Think i will shoot some pictures.

If it doesn't fly sell it!
05-01-2008 12:18 PM
 
 
Dilbeck
Veteran
Location: Springdale Arkansas

Here are the pictures of the canopy fit.



If it doesn't fly sell it!
05-01-2008 01:01 PM
 
 
Ravenhyper50
Senior Heliman
Location: Ottawa

Quote 
I used a dremel to grind down the corners of the servo frames.
Didn't have to take off much to make it work and the geometry stays the same.

Hey helihell this is a quality century kit. You should not need to cut or grind anything. This is done for you at the factory


When I bent my servo frames (very little) geometry is perfect
I also use the century servo arms designed for the raven. Plenty of throw with the century arms 14+/- easily with lots more to spare!
I think some kits the servo frames were not bent to the exact specs.
Some are perfect like Dilbecks raven, and some need a little work.
Same goes for the main shafts, and feather shafts. Some need work, and others its just plug and play.

SWIFT 550 Carbon, Swift 620SE, DX-7, JR servos
05-01-2008 01:16 PM
 
 
Dilbeck
Veteran
Location: Springdale Arkansas

Damn, I finally got a break and didnt have to bend anything!!!!

If it doesn't fly sell it!
05-01-2008 01:21 PM
 
 
Blade_Master1
Veteran
Location: Canada

Even though I like my heli's
I got to mention that Century's QC and kit quality is somewhat lacking of desire.

but for the price you still come out ahead.

Maybe someday they will make their kits better such as better parts description and a manual that actualy shows a proper assembly method

The way I build my kits is SOOOO diferrent from what they describe in their manual.

You can say what you want , Just don't say it here!
05-01-2008 04:19 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
helihell
Heliman
Location: Canada

Quote 
Hey helihell this is a quality century kit. You should not need to cut or grind anything. This is done for you at the factory[

Not sure I get that RH50, this was about the only area I had to spend "extra time" and for any heli kit thats pretty good.

With the servos I'm using if I bent the frames back any the servo case would have been touching the upper frame, did not like that idea so I rounded the edges on the servo brackets instead. Still lots of metal left.
05-01-2008 06:12 PM
 
 
jackheli
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver - Canada

Check my gallery on canopy isolators



Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new - Albert Einstein
05-01-2008 06:16 PM
 
 
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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Raven 50, need some pointers
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