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Autography FlightPower . Advantage Hobby . Revolution Models

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Blades, Night Flying and Painting > Transfer Paper/Tape Questions, Clear Coat Problems
 
 
Farrell
Senior Heliman
Location: Orange, CA

Hello,

I have a vinyl cutter (Roland SX-8) that I bought off eBay and it came with a bunch of vinyl and a 60 yard roll of transfer tape. I've had some good success with using the transfer tape, but it seems to do a very poor job on anything over mildly bending surfaces. I want to try airbrushing the Airtronics logo into my windscreen area, but I know the tape won't let me apply the mask cleanly by any stretch of the imagination.

The roll of transfer tape I have looks and feels like its just a wide roll of masking tape. Is there anything better? Something with some flexibility and stretchiness... is anything like that made? Is is reasonably priced for someone like me who is doing this on a hobby level?

Lastly, I painted another canopy this past weekend, and it turned out fairly well with only a few spots where paint creped past the fine line and masking tape (my fault.) But I am perpetually having problems with the clear coat having very small dimples and mounds.

I'm using a water trap, shoot at roughly 75F with low humidity (Southern California weather) and I always clean the canopy with soap and water in between coats and let dry thoroughly. I suspect the majority of my problem is that I'm shooting in my garage, and its a little dusty. Due to restrictions beyond my control I can't make a mini paint booth in the garage or house. Has anyone tried shooting clear outside? Is it worth attempting?

I'm using Virtus high solids two-part clear coat, 2:1 ratio, and approximately 15% HoK RU-311 reducer added to it. I have used the clear a few times in the past, and have the same problems. No fogging or peeling though, so I'm doing well in that department. Sticks incredibly well, and 30% nitro hasn't causing any harm or yellowing.







To clarify, the canopy pictured above was not masked with my vinyl/transfer tape, it was done freehand with tape. My questions are not connected to each other.

-Farrell
04-29-2008 05:57 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
angelob
Veteran
Location: Harvard, IL

Have you tried making the stencil with vinyl? But be careful with the vinyl - some of it is extremely sticky and wont release well. It will show any adhesion problems with your paint. I use Oracal 751 for my stencils - it sticks well and doesnt leave any residue. Ive tried painting mask but find that I have issues making it stick well enough to prevent paint spray from seeping under the edges.

Angelo
04-29-2008 10:15 PM
 
 
Bill Ludwig
Veteran
Location: Tucson, AZ

If you use a high quality paint mask it conforms VERY well to compound curved surfaces, and sticks very well. It releases when you peel it up, and leaves no residue. Find it here:

http://www.signwarehouse.com/shop/m...VGAP-SPMSK1510N

My suggestion regarding clear coat is do NOT do it unless you have a forced air paint hood over your head. Read the label on the can -- it does not say it 'may' cause cancer....it says it 'WILL' cause cancer. I recommend taking it to a local body shop and have them shoot it when they have finished with a car.

- Bill
04-30-2008 01:56 AM
 
 
godspeed128
Senior Heliman
Location: NC

vinyl

you can get vinyl that is made to come off easy after you paint over it I use it all the time now works well and is cheep I use it in my cutter to make stencils

There is nothing in this world constant, but inconstancy.
04-30-2008 03:48 AM
 
 
Bill Ludwig
Veteran
Location: Tucson, AZ

godspeed128,

I'm pretty sure the vinyl you are talking about is spray mask...see my post above.

- Bill
04-30-2008 04:20 AM
 
 
Farrell
Senior Heliman
Location: Orange, CA

Thanks for the info guys, but the paint seepage was not really the big problem I had. That was due to me to not pushing down well enough, an oversight on my part. The 3M fine line tape I'm using seems to work very very well, I just forgot to press down in some spots after I laid down the basic curved lines.

My main concern was for future projects, where I plan to use low-tack vinyl for the mask. I have used regular vinyl in the past, and realized how well it sticks I know how to solve that, in fact Bill is the one who clued me in, replying to one of my earlier posts on this forum. The problem is that I couldn't even lay it onto the surface cleanly because the transfer tape I have just folds and wrinkles when you try to lay it down on a curved surface.

For example, in this canopy I painted a few months back I tried to apply a checkerboard mask, and a paint drip mask. Both were a pain to apply with the transfer tape. The vinyl itself was flexible enough, but the transfer tape was not. I had to get a few spots of the vinyl touching the canopy, then I personally rubbed it down onto the surface without the use of the transfer tape.

Is transfer tape/paper just an art in and of itself, or do I just have the wrong stuff?

-Farrell
04-30-2008 05:20 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Bill Ludwig
Veteran
Location: Tucson, AZ

Transfer tape is not good over curved surfaces, Farrell. Your best bet in those cases is to use the transfer tape only to get your mask roughly where you want it (apply it wet!), then pull the transfer tape off, and reposition the mask manually - one piece at a time.

After you have the mask where you want it, start working the wrinkles out, using a hair dryer to soften the vinyl as you go -- it's amazing how much you can work them out around some pretty tight spots!

- Bill
04-30-2008 05:34 AM
 
 
Farrell
Senior Heliman
Location: Orange, CA

oops, I forgot to post the photos of my other canopy that I mentioned:





Bill, thanks again for the info. what should i use to wet the canopy? Windex ok?

Dave Yost has a photo at this post which I misinterpreted regarding transfer tape:


http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t376411p1/

After searching for that photo I see that he is using Gerber mask, is that anything special? I know he's a pro, but man I can't even remotely imagine getting my transfer tape to curve like that.

-Farrell
04-30-2008 06:04 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Bill Ludwig
Veteran
Location: Tucson, AZ

Sure, Windex is fine. I use something called 'Splash' made just for that, but Windex or a bit of liquid detergent in water will work just about as well. It just allows you to position the graphic before it starts sticking to everything in sight.

I've never used Gerber Mask, but it sure appears to go over the curved surfaces well! Hey, Dave, chime in here and tell us more about it!!

- Bill
04-30-2008 02:27 PM
 
 
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Blades, Night Flying and Painting > Transfer Paper/Tape Questions, Clear Coat Problems
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