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Blink Helicopters . Fast Lad Performance . Center Stick

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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Blade CP++ + hi im new and have a blade cp+
 
 
keiser BLADE
Heliman
Location: so.chas WV USA

well , ive been into rc for a while planes and cars for about 14 years, im at the hobby shop about a week ago, and decide to look at a heli, i just had to have one so i grabbed the blade cp +, says it will fly right out of the box thats b.s. well right off the bat blades into ground, so i came a across this site and it has been very helpful, i learned my heli was not balanced very well, im still waiting to balance the blades, but i've been really trying, and have got it hovering, ive been practicing on clearview, dont know how realistic the cp flies on there. i think im gonna pick up a b400 in a few days, i just wanted to say hi, and if anyone is near charleston wv and would like to give me a few lesson id be appriciated, im flying symetrical blades seems how thw lhs has no flat ones, im wandering if the flat will make it more stable thanks brandon
04-28-2008 04:44 AM
 
 
Gyronut
Elite Veteran
Location: Martinsville In.

Welcome to the group.

You have choosen a tough road with the BCP.

They aren't very forgiveing for a noob and are chalangeing enough for a seasoned flyer.

Smaller is not easier.

The best advice I can give you is to practice practice and practice some more on the sim until you get your hovering skills built up.

But to answer one of your other ? the 400 will be a bit easier to fly, but will still get you in trouble very quickly.

Rick
04-29-2008 12:29 AM
 
 
SolarXtreme
Veteran
Location: Arroyo Grande, CA

They stock CP should come with two weights slid all the way slid in to the flybar carrier. Loosen the set screw and slide the weights all the way out to the paddles then retighten. If the heli still is too responsive get another set of weights and add them to the flybar. This will increase the gyroscopic effect of the flybar and stabilize the system. The stock setup is setup for "3D" flying and is not very forgiving to new pilots.

I picked a hell of a day to quit drinking

Avant EFX
Freya EVO
04-29-2008 12:33 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
keiser BLADE
Heliman
Location: so.chas WV USA

what kind of heli should i look for, im having a time getting gyro adjusted, i got the tail to hold straight,on ground but when i raise it up it starts spinning nose to left then when i adjust gain nose to the right guess i just need the sweet spot, i have bell-hiller upgrade, superskids, and plastic blades,alum swash, training gear is zip tied to the skids,i really like helis, and would like to fly my cp, here are some pics and thanks for the welcome

04-29-2008 01:21 AM
 
 
Splix
Senior Heliman
Location: Lafayette, IN

get a blade 400. It is a starter heli, and you'll be ultimately happier with it over the CP. The CP is always hard to fly. The blade 400 can be super stable enough to learn with then can follow you well enough through your advancement. Unlike the CP, the 400 can be tuned either way.

Oh wow! I wish my transmitter said "Touch Your Dreams!"
04-29-2008 01:30 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
keiser BLADE
Heliman
Location: so.chas WV USA

there is one for the 400, thanks Brandon
04-29-2008 01:36 AM
 
 
keiser BLADE
Heliman
Location: so.chas WV USA

i went back and messed with the settings, my pitch was out of wack big time, at 0 throttle i had 5 deg and the other was 1 deg, i got out the ruler and started measuring got them both close to 0 deg and setup the 3 in 1 a lil more it hovers real nice now, still kinda scared to take it out and fly it, at least the superskids keep my tail rotor out of the carpet. thanks Brandon
04-29-2008 04:29 AM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

SolarXtreme: If keiser BLADE moves the "second set of flybar weights all the way out to the paddles", I guarantee that heli will not be flying - because the flybar will freely rotate in the head! That second set of "weights" are the clamps that hold the flybar.

The head on keiser BLADE's CP+ is properly set up. He could de-sensitize it by moving the servo rods in 1 hole, but I do not recommend it.

My advice:

  1. A larger heli is more stable and will be easier to learn to fly (outside). As GinoCP stated on this forum: "Get the largest heli you can afford to crash"...
  2. Follow Radd's and learn to hover in 10 battery packs - don't cheat it, even with a larger heli! Go here for Radd's:
    [http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html].

I learned on the BCPP, and so can you - but learning to fly on a larger heli is easier (although learning to fix it isn't).

Regarding the blades, you really will not see much difference between flat and symmetrical while you are learning.

Remember, setup is everything, no matter what size heli you have. Check my gallery for a bunch of links and tips on getting your heli set up correctly.

Good luck! Post back with any problems, and we will try to help you through them...
04-29-2008 04:30 AM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

BTW: It looks like you are flying with plastic blades. I do not recommend them, unless you want to learn how to replace your tail boom... same goes for carbon fiber. Stick with woodies.
04-29-2008 04:33 AM
 
 
keiser BLADE
Heliman
Location: so.chas WV USA

ok thanks tutelar-rc, i will get some woodies soon as possible, setup is everything, hovers pretty good with the right setup, ill keep everyone posted thanks brandon
04-29-2008 04:57 AM
 
 
zaw
Senior Heliman
Location: Lebanon, NH - USA

Blade 400 have harder to fix the head with a lots of parts and linkages. Where BladCP got very few parts to be replace on the head and its extremely simple. Blade 400 also got higher head speed and it will react the same to any beginner who's just trying to hover.

Blade is CP EXTREMELY very stable. So stable that I can get it lift off and hover with only 12" of room on both side of the blades for whole battery pack.

For the beginner I like the non BELL head, less parts, less responsive and blade grips won't break every time you crash. Don't give up just keep trying and you'll get it.

I like flat bottom blades, I think they give you lift at lower head speed, make it easier to control.

Getting it off the ground is hardest part for for me. After 4in1 was adjusted, new main shaft, new blades and new tail motor, I finally got a good lift off. After that lifting off was like riding a bike. I don't even think about it.

Still working on Side Ins and good fast forward flights etc.

BCP+CP2 mix Separates BL, DD-tail, HH //\\ HBK2 JGF 400 11T //\\ Friend's B400
04-29-2008 05:33 AM
 
 
SolarXtreme
Veteran
Location: Arroyo Grande, CA

Quote 
SolarXtreme: If keiser BLADE moves the "second set of flybar weights all the way out to the paddles", I guarantee that heli will not be flying - because the flybar will freely rotate in the head! That second set of "weights" are the clamps that hold the flybar.

I never said "second set of weights". I said "two weights" (one for each side) should be slid all the way out. I mis-read the post he has a Blade CP+ a Blade CP Pro has the weights up against the flybar retainer by default (unlike the CP+).

I picked a hell of a day to quit drinking

Avant EFX
Freya EVO
04-29-2008 07:59 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
keiser BLADEHeliman - Location: so.chas WV USA -
can someone tell me how to get the drift out of my heli, when i get it off the ground , the nose goes left, if i turn the gyro gain up the nose will go right, maybe adjust the proportional trim a little ? thanks brandon

should i get a g90 hh ?
04-30-2008 01:32 AM
 
 
Bluesilver30
Veteran
Location: USAF Academy, CO - USA

rate gyros will always require some input to keep the tail straight based on different power levels. if you're holding a hover, you can trim it and it will do a decent job of holding your heading. HH gyro's will hold pretty much rock solid. keep in mind when flying with rate gyro's or (more noticeably) with no gyro you will have to adjust the tail with every power input.

-Nick
04-30-2008 05:14 AM
 
 
keiser BLADE
Heliman
Location: so.chas WV USA

ok thanks, i couldnt get it to hold solid for nothing, but it was easily controlable, should i look at a g 90, or just look for the 401 HH? thanks again Brandon
04-30-2008 05:57 AM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

If you are still learning, stick with the stock rate gyro - at least until you are into forward flight. This will give you much needed flying skills. A HH gyro is not really going to help your learning curve...

Are you following Radd's to learn?
[http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html]
04-30-2008 07:55 PM
 
 
keiser BLADE
Heliman
Location: so.chas WV USA

yeah radds is great, im on step 3, just having one battery sucks, before radds though, when i was hovering the tail would not hold straight so i was just trying to figure out if maybe it should move a little, and thatmy parts are not faulty. thanks tutelar-rc
Brandon
04-30-2008 09:29 PM
 
 
zaw
Senior Heliman
Location: Lebanon, NH - USA

When you get battery make sure they have at least 20C discharge rate.

BCP+CP2 mix Separates BL, DD-tail, HH //\\ HBK2 JGF 400 11T //\\ Friend's B400
05-01-2008 05:57 AM
 
 
keiser BLADE
Heliman
Location: so.chas WV USA

ok 20c or better ,can someone recomend a few? thanks brandon
05-01-2008 06:47 AM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

I am very happy with my Thunder Power TP910s and TP1300s. I have (inadvertently) abused them and they keep going!

When you get more batteries, make sure you invest in a real balancer/charger to protect your battery investment.

A good balancer/charger and good batteries will pay for themselves. Especially when compared to a fuel alternative...
05-01-2008 12:46 PM
 
 
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Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC . Real Raptors

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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Blade CP++ + hi im new and have a blade cp+
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