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CanoMod . A Main Hobbies . Boca Bearings

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Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Predator Gasser build
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Ross, stock muffler is fine.

Ace
What could be more fun?
04-28-2008 12:52 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Toadster25
Veteran
Location: Iowa

I tried a couple different exhaust and ended up using the stock muffler and like it the best. It is a lot cheaper, the engine is easy to tune with it and the it never comes loose. I think the only reason not to use it is the engine probably is slightly louder and maybe doesn't give the engine as much power but that doesn't bother me.
04-28-2008 02:10 AM
 
 
turbo35
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern Ohio

Try the Century Topedo V3 muffler, its quieter and builds better back pressure. The Zenoah 231 engines run great with this pipe.

Fly it like you stole it, not like your gonna break it !!!
04-28-2008 02:14 AM
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Quote 
No telling who put the burr on there; may not have been Zenoah. Anyways, any good mechanic will remove all burrs and make right at assembly.

A good mechanic will, but won't let the machinst forget about the burr that was his job to make sure was not there. This type of stuff wouldn't have made it out the shop I work, if it did there would be people getting a week off.

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-28-2008 10:59 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Quote 
A good mechanic will, but won't let the machinst forget about the burr that was his job to make sure was not there.

LOL

Ace
What could be more fun?
04-28-2008 05:40 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

When you build, you should also note that the fan has a burr on the on the beginning of the taper and should be deburred as well. The crossholes have some burs and you probably should hit those too. You can get some blueing that shows the matting patter from a machine /die shop supplier to make sure it's as close as possible before you start indicating.
One other note, when I was examining the clutch right after taking it out of the package, there was an aluminum swarth (machining chip) sitting inside the bearing area. Make sure your parts are clean before assembling. I'm sure this would have just pushed itself out, but if it would have lodged inside the bearings it would have been a bad deal you would never figure out.

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-29-2008 01:17 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pgkevet
Heliman
Location: surrey UK

My turn to experience the 3-screw nightmare. Included screwdriver shattered immediately.. you can clearly see the crystalisation of the alloy. My own real screwdriver removed 2 screws OK and stripped the last one's slots <sigh>...
..time to beg a favour at local garage rather than invest in extractors or drill out the head and fail to get a grip on the shank - car will be due it's annual soon anyway

(my old dad used to call this sort of alloy 'monkey metal'

pgk
04-30-2008 07:18 PM
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

You've got 2 out, now just turn the plate a little counter clock wise. That should loosen it enough to remove it. That's exactly what happened to me!!
In the States we call it Pot metal,, whatever they have laying around they throw in a pot and use it.. Yep.
Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-30-2008 07:20 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pgkevet
Heliman
Location: surrey UK

<<You've got 2 out, now just turn the plate a little counter clock wise. That should loosen it enough to remove it. >>

..No Joy!.. Option of cutting a decent slot and risking twisting the head completely.. or letting local garage have a go.. I know the guy there pretty well.. we've helped each other out before..

pgk
04-30-2008 09:30 PM
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Note to all:
Paul P has contacted me about my issues and is offering replacement for the bad / missing part. He has doesn't see all the PM's that come though and to email him directly. I have no idea where I sent that other email but it must have gone missing.
I have to say that is great! I've always said it doesn't take much effort when there are no problems. It seems like they really want to put the effort in to make people happy. I've notched out my coil area, and put my flat head screws in. Pictures shortly..

Thanks again Paul P!

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-30-2008 11:48 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pgkevet
Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Good news Profwiz..hope you're sorted soonest..

Looks like I may have a result too..dropped engine into local garage to beg favour.. turns out junior mechanic is into Helis and mainly Gasser planks and only too happy to try and sort...
Plus it means I have some local help with potential tune-up probs and stuff...<exits stage left floating on air>

<edit>.. took local garage under a minute..young mechanic dropped engine back for me.. and excuse to chat..keen to help play with this build and heli..

pgk
05-01-2008 09:26 AM
 
 
pgkevet
Heliman
Location: surrey UK

Profwiz,

Back with the engine minus plate and offered it up to the bottom frame part - fortunately a better fit that yours and sits into the recess. I do note that the engine casting has enough irregularity to give a small gap which would tighten down without binding.-

But out of interest I wonder if this could have been bypassed with some form of thin gasket for a better seat and then it would be possible to fit the engine to this mount neatly?

If I had facilities to true the casting base then I'd be back to crushing the coil as you reported.

I need to replace the knackered M5's but might be worth experimentng with some very thin shims (a few thou) and a right angle?

Question: Is the frame going to be accurate enough for that to be worth while?

pgk
05-01-2008 09:27 PM
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Here's where I'm at now,

Here's the modded frame





I am having issues with runout. I've gotten the fan to .0005" runout, which is good, but the clutch I can't get better than .004". The screws get perhaps one thread on them into the clutch from the outside of the fan hub. One other odd thing, the outside of the fan runs true, but the inside runs out .003". I didn't disassemble the fan and did like the instructions told me, I removed one at a time and added loctite. Very frustrated.
The clutch looks like it was reworked as well, there are a total of 8 holes, 4 of the 3mm and it looks like there are 4 - 4mm as well. Here's a pic




Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
05-02-2008 01:34 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
victor55ca
Senior Heliman
Location: Vancouver BC

Make sure you check the clutch to hub clearance. It has to go into the the hub with absolutely no clearance. It should be a tight fit.

I have one of century's first attempts at an HD clutch, its in the drawer because it so bad.

Vince
05-02-2008 02:42 AM
 
 
rbort
Elite Veteran
Location: Franklin, MA - U.S.A.

More bolts

I think the reason the clutch as 8 screws now as with 4 screws the bolts used to sheer off in flight due to vibrations of pulses from the motor. They are just improving the current clutch by drilling more holes and putting in more screws to prevent this from happening.

-=>Raja.

1005 Xcell Gas, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
Spectra-g, BHH G26 3D Plus, Jewel Generator
05-02-2008 02:54 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

I ran into the same issues you are describing mounting the NX clutch.

http://runryder.com/helicopter/t409721p1

It only uses 4 of the holes as the fan hub is drilled for 4. Replace the screws that come with the kit, they *are wrong*. Century replaced them with the right ones when I called them about this. I think part of the secret to a low runout on the clutch was not to tighten down the screws too much and rely on the loctite to hold the screws. I did snug them down, just didn't torque them down. I was checking runout as I was tightening them down after finding what I thought was the best position of the clutch. Also I think it's more important to get near 0 runout on the fan hub, not the outside. You really want that big honkin' clutch centered.

I'll be redoing some of this shortly as I need to pull the clutch off and flip the one-way torrington bearing, putting the generator on


Also, if you haven't ordered the 5 o-ring's to "fix" the mainshaft oneway spraq bearing, you might want to get them now! be much easier to fix now rather than after you've already assembled.

http://runryder.com/helicopter/t426711p1/

...yep...
05-02-2008 04:25 AM
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Looks great Professor.

I rounded the corners with mine because I didn't like the sharp points. This was all done with a drill and file. Yours looks great.



Ace
What could be more fun?
05-02-2008 05:12 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Thanks Acebird, I'm not that handy with a file, so I used a CNC at work in manual jog mode. I was going to get fancy but I had only about 5 min of play time to get on and get off during lunch to do it. We have an awesome aluminum cutter with a diamond tip that leave a spetacular finish with a rainbowish reflection when it's done, but I didn't want to cut down the unit. I think I could have gotten that chatter out if I would have removed about .010". I might have to just draw up a print and make new ones, but I sold my CNC machine to finance this bird. I guess that's what was aggravating me so much, I got tired of making upgrade parts and figured I'd just buy the best, and wind up having to refinish parts anyway. It's all good.
I reread the instructions that AGRAV8 listed in the Century forum and will try to redo my clutch with his instructions. Seems like a good idea.
I'm not sure I understand completely the O'ring thing. I'll have to research that more to get a better understanding.

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
05-02-2008 08:46 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Quote 
I'm not sure I understand completely the O'ring thing.

I have to admit I don't see its benefit either. On a spur gear (the main)the end play up and down is not going to hurt anything. However if the bevel gear rocks around you have a huge problem because it affects the mesh. So I can see the need for a close fit on the main shaft but don't understand the o-ring thing.

Ace
What could be more fun?
05-02-2008 09:25 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Acebird,
It's not that I don't believe that it needs to be done, just at the point I'm at know, I'm not even understanding what parts are what that need to be adjusted or where to put the O-rings.
I'm sure I'll crash sometime this year with it, so It'll be a planned upgrade then, unless it's really loose. Haven't made it a year without putting one in the dirt
BTW Acebird, your fan looks a lot different than mine, is that because mine would be the NX upgrade?
Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
05-03-2008 12:34 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
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Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Predator Gasser build
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