rrTV-PHOTO   New HD TV
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 813 ONLINE 73 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
8 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ]2315 viewsPOST REPLY
HeliHobby . Ron’s HeliProz South . Century Helicopter

.
.
Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Predator Gasser build
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Well finally got started putting the Predator Carbon gasser together tonight. I was suprised by a couple of things. I thought the head would be larger than my Raptor 60, but it's about the same size. The paddles are out abit further though.
2 things off the start perplexed me. One was the numbering system of the bags, and what was in the bags. The stuff really doesn't seem to be in much order in the bags and except for the tail gear stuff they don't seem to have much of a ryhme or reason.
The other was the engine / gear mount. After breaking the head off the included screwdriver to get the screws out as the suggestions said, and using a good old craftsman. I noticed that the plate doesn't sit exactly flush with the engine. Looks it's sitting on the coil by about .005" or .010". I can squeeze it down, but that can't be good, and the back of the mount has chatter markes on them that is so deep it looks like a 1960's planner got ahold of it and slung it off the table!
Man I'm pretty disapointed now. I was really excited to spend this kinda dough on a heli. To see this kind of craftsmanship leaves me wondering..






Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-26-2008 05:40 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Brunobl
Senior Heliman
Location: Rio de Janeiro, RJ - Brazil

I recall I also had trouble removing the 3 engine bolts from the Zenoah. They did come off but it was kind of a pain.

I can see your source coil sitting against the frame and I agree that can't be good. On the Spectra, the engine sits on top of a 1.5mm CF spacer plate so the coil is well clear of anything. Isn't there a similar spacer on the Predator?

I'm sure the Predator guys here will chime in and help you get over this small setback, and then you'll enjoy the building process.

Good luck with your new bird

-------------------
Best regards,
Bruno.
04-26-2008 11:25 AM
 
 
litespeed600
Senior Heliman
Location: St. Charles, Missouri

I have the aluminum version and my bottom plate is recessed in the area where the coil is. I never really thought about coil clearence I just thought it was to save weight. I'm not sure how that could be done with carbon fiber though. I'm sure that your set-up will work since I have never read about this problem before. I can post a picture if you like.

Enjoy the new heli.

Tom

I'm married so you know I am no stranger to pain!
04-26-2008 12:14 PM
 
 
litespeed600
Senior Heliman
Location: St. Charles, Missouri

I found this and wonder if it would help you.


It says in the manual, "If needed, insert three shims between the engine and landing gear frame."

"#HW6207 M6x13x0.2 Shims x 4"

Do you have those and if you do does that help?

I can't tell if your landing gear frame is aluminum painted black or if it's carbon fiber. The instructions do not tell.


I believe you will be happy with the rest of the heli. Although my experience is limited I really have nothing bad to share about mine. Well, other than a crash!

Tom

I'm married so you know I am no stranger to pain!
04-26-2008 12:32 PM
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Quote 
I noticed that the plate doesn't sit exactly flush with the engine.

It is a known problem. You have to cut the frame away where it hits the coil.



Ace
What could be more fun?
04-26-2008 02:02 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Toadster25
Veteran
Location: Iowa

I'd have to look at mine but I'm pretty sure the coil rubbs on the frame on my spectra. It just barely touches so I never even thought anything of it.
04-26-2008 02:32 PM
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

The instructions do say something about using shims, It's right after the statement about a clutchbell so I figured it would be more for that alignment. I'll be darned if I can find those shims in the bags.. I've got through them a number of times now. I'm having some issues finding the M4X6X4 spacers for the removable pull start mount as well.
The engine frame / mount is aluminum anodized black. It is recessed, but doesn't look like enough. My feeling is if I tighten it down so the coil rubs, I'll be inducing unneeded stress into the engine and the rest of the components. I'd hate to have to modify it but I guess I'll have no choice. Has Century come up with anything on this?
Thanks for all the encouragment.

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-26-2008 03:21 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
pgkevet
Heliman
Location: surrey UK

...Post all the irritations and their solutions. I'm glued to your build thread. I'd planned to be building mine by now but the kit is somewhere in the postal system - hopefully just held up rather than lost

pgk
04-26-2008 03:22 PM
 
 
jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

I agree the instructions and kit layout leave a lot to be desired. I ended up taking everything out of the bags and organizing them in some disposable plastic kitchen storage containers.

I didn't have trouble getting the screws holding the stcok base plate onto the engine but I wonder if they had already been loosened by Hanson. Others have reported resorting to some heat on the screws to loosen them.

I just checked and sure enough my coil is hitting the base plate. I didn't see that during the build and the base plate appears to be flat against the engine. I do not have any spacers between the engine and the base plate and wouldn't want to put them there. My clutch is perfectly even with the bottom of the clutch bell. Looks like I'll need to take the base plate off and grind some clearance there.

...yep...
04-26-2008 03:45 PM
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Will do,
One more thing I've found is the stamped cooling shroud mount plate is warped by about .01" also. It's pretty thin so I'm sure it doesn't matter, just another bummer. Dull dies?

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-26-2008 03:46 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

I don't think that matters and there was a gap all the way around the fan shroud and the plate. I sealed it with some clear RTV just to help keep the air pressure up and shove the air down to the head of the engine.

I'll be putting in some baffling per Billme's suggestion. Stuff some foam up into the fan shroud right between the head and the shroud. Forces the air through the fins.

...yep...
04-26-2008 03:50 PM
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

I saw the gap, I'm assuming you mean the one around the crankcase casting around the front bearing. I was going to leave that open, it seems small enough that a large amount of air won't go though, but a little might keep the case in that area chilled so the bearing doesn't get hot. Probably don't matter, but that's what I was thinking. Has it been a problem either way with these motors? Overheating?

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-26-2008 06:12 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

If you put shims or washers between the plate and the motor your holes will not line up in the side frames. You either cut the plastic or cut the metal or I guess bend the metal. Best bet is to cut the metal. The metal doesn't mean diddly there anyway.



Ace
What could be more fun?
04-26-2008 11:29 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Thanks for the tip AceBird. I'll bring it to work and notch it out nice. I'll probably wind up flycutting the back, just cause I can't stand the looks of the chatter marks. When did you do your build??

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-27-2008 04:21 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

I actually sealed the fan shroud to the fan shroud base plate. I don't know if it makes any difference but I wanted to not leak any of the pressure the fan is producing out through the sides. You can see what I did around the ESS fittings in these pictures.



...yep...
04-27-2008 07:22 AM
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

I got my gasser 1 1/2 years ago in August. The second season I made extensive changes to the frame. Check my gallery if you want.

Ace
What could be more fun?
04-27-2008 01:26 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

Acebird, wow looks like you've redone just about everything on the bird. Pretty nice.
Is that riser you have under the engine with the belt attached going to a generator?
Another area that must have gotten missed in QC, but by Zenoha is that on mine you can feel a burr on the egde of the crank on the edge of the taper. Only on one side. That would be enough to throw it out of wack.

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-27-2008 02:11 PM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
victor55ca
Senior Heliman
Location: Vancouver BC

Hi Prof

I replaced those philips head engine bolts with hex heads. I believe they are a 5M x 14mm Counter sunk. I all my experience I have found no mater what PHILIPS HEADS SUCK!

If you can't find them in your area try these guys they do internet orders.
http://www.microfasteners.com/catal...ucts/METSFM.cfm

Vince
04-27-2008 05:32 PM
 
 
Professorwiz
Veteran
Location: Livonia, Michigan - USA

victor55ca, yep ordered some right before I saw your suggestion. I agree Philips heads have no place on a heli..I got mine from MSC, www.mscdirect.com.
Acebird, I was checking your gallery more. It answered another question I had. I was planning on using the stock muffler for a while and wondered if anyone else was using it. Must right ok right?

Russ

Go that way really fast.. If something gets in your way.. TURN
04-28-2008 12:48 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
AceBird
Elite Veteran
Location: Utica, NY USA

Quote 
PHILIPS HEADS SUCK!

They are fine if you don't use loc-tite. It isn't necessary on a countersunk hole.

Quote 
Another area that must have gotten missed in QC, but by Zenoha is that on mine you can feel a burr on the egde of the crank on the edge of the taper.

No telling who put the burr on there; may not have been Zenoah. Anyways, any good mechanic will remove all burrs and make right at assembly.

Ace
What could be more fun?
04-28-2008 12:51 AM
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
8 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ]2315 viewsPOST REPLY
MTA Hobbies . MRC/Altech Marketing USA . Next D

.
.
Gasser Model RC Helicopters > Predator Gasser build
  UPDATE SCREEN   PRINT TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Tuesday, May 13 - 11:27 pm - Copyright © 2000 - 2008 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie