RunRyder - Sequence of getting more aggressive

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HIROBO X-spec - Freya - Sceadu - Shuttle > Sequence of getting more aggressive - Evo 50

kcass518
Veteran
Location: Manhasset, NY - USA

I'm creeping up on making my Evo more responsive, but I don't want to change too much too quickly because I don't want to get to the field to find I can't control the heli. And, I don't want to take too small a step. Anyway,

What order would you suggest in increasing cyclic response? To start, I've removed the lead weights from the paddles but left the brass ones in. My Seesaw is on the outer hole. Everything else is stock. Blades are CY Radix. Next step should I remove the brass weights or move the seesaw to the inner hole? OR, should I just wait until I can fly upside down or hover inverted before making it more unstable?

Right now I am comfortable in FFF, loops and rolls to the right (left rolls are not pretty but doable). I've done a number of successful autos. It just seems a little sluggish in the rolls, I think it could be more nimble. Any suggestions?

PS, I also put on the Infinavation Dampeners, but can't tell the difference yet.

04-18-2008 08:49 PM

BarracudaHockey
rrMaster
Location: Orange Park FL

Take out the brass.

AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

04-18-2008 09:08 PM

Jafa
Elite Veteran
Location: Sydney, Australia

Yeah - take out the brass but most Evo's will nood in forward flight - so half the lead seems to work well

Even when you max out the cyclic on the Evo - it's not fast and not hard to keep up with

Ensure you are getting max swash deflection

Keep the mixer on the outside position

Headspeed 2,000

Different mainblades - CN266166C
http://www.centuryheli.com/products...l?currentid=191

Lepton | TRex600Nitro | Sceadu | Freya | Avant | Predator Carbon Max

04-18-2008 11:05 PM

c54fun
Senior Heliman
Location: Central Iowa

I use a 440 flybar with greenies with around 7 degrees of cyclic on my Evo. Seems great to me anyway. I went from the stock length bar with stock paddles with the lead removed but still had the brass. I like the new set up much better.

4 out of 3 people have problems with fraction's.

04-19-2008 12:52 AM

kcass518
Veteran
Location: Manhasset, NY - USA

'cuda - your advice was bang on as always. I took out the brass this morning and all I can say is WOW! My flying improved immediately. Much better control and faster response. Thank you also for your book on assembling the Evo 50. After my last crash I went over everything from Step One on. The Hirobo instructions tell you what parts to put together, but your piece shows us HOW to do it and WHY, and offers great techniques to get it right. What a difference! I don't remember where I got the link from or I'd put in a plug here, but for anyone else building an Evo 50 I highly recommend reading your tutorial as you do your assembly.

Jafa, not sure what 'nood' means, but I'm flying straight and accurately, so for now I'm going naked. Headspeed is about 1900 which seems fine. Maybe I'll boost it up a bit as I get more comfortable. What would the CN266166C's do for me that the CYs aren't? Maybe that would be the next step up?

C54fun - 440 is longer than stock? What would that do for me? How do the greenies compare to the stock w/no weights?

Thanks everyone. It's getting to be more fun all of a sudden!

04-19-2008 03:34 PM

c54fun
Senior Heliman
Location: Central Iowa

Yes 440 is longer. Many people here are having good luck with T-rex 600 440 bars. You can do a search of "longer flybar" and see what people are saying. More stable hover with faster response.

Cant really say about the greenies. I added them at the same time as the longer flybar so I am not sure how they would compare to the stock paddles. My heli does not pitch up in fast forward flite. To light of a paddle can make your heli do this.

4 out of 3 people have problems with fraction's.

04-19-2008 11:25 PM

BarracudaHockey
rrMaster
Location: Orange Park FL

Glad I could help.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/...?article_id=890

AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

04-19-2008 11:35 PM

Jafa
Elite Veteran
Location: Sydney, Australia

04-20-2008 02:56 AM

Learn to Fly
Key Veteran
Location: Yalesville Connecticut

Stock paddles on a 450mmish Fury 4mm flybar.

Cyclic is crisp and fast. My buddy did not know it was my Evo.

Next option would be CCPM. Its night and day on response.

Jeff
Believe nothing you hear, and half of what you see...

04-20-2008 11:27 AM

CT.Chopper
Senior Heliman
Location: Meriden, CT

Jeff,
I have a new built ccpm evo.50 on the bench,
with a few upgrades....

Rob Landry.

04-20-2008 02:00 PM

kcass518
Veteran
Location: Manhasset, NY - USA

Can you upgrade an HPM to CCPM? Or would I need a new kit?

04-20-2008 10:19 PM

CT.Chopper
Senior Heliman
Location: Meriden, CT

you can just get the ccpm upgrade kit,
not sure what the part # is

Rob Landry.

04-20-2008 11:16 PM

Leif
Elite Veteran
Location: Oxford, PA - USA

The part number is 412231 - SD SWM PP PARTS SET

About $80 for the upgrade kit.

Leif

04-21-2008 12:12 AM

kcass518
Veteran
Location: Manhasset, NY - USA

Great! Does it end up being the same as if I bought the CCPM to begin with, or does it compromise at all?

04-21-2008 01:25 PM

Leif
Elite Veteran
Location: Oxford, PA - USA

You end up with the same heli whether you upgrade or buy the SWM version. When they build the kits, they put either the HPM or the SWM control set bag into the kit.

You do end up with an extra set of linkage rods for the mixer and blade grips, since the SWM upgrade kit includes those rods and they're identical to the ones you are already using. The changes are from the swashplate down.

Leif

04-21-2008 01:32 PM

pcmpete
Senior Heliman
Location: Palmdale California via Ireland

Hi all, the best setup I have found so far is:
440mm flybar
K&S paddles (in the read hole)
CCPM
NHP blades
2000+ headspeed
cx dampers
6volt reg. power setup

my evo rocks

Pete B

TEAM BEAM
HiroboWorld forum

04-21-2008 06:31 PM

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HIROBO X-spec - Freya - Sceadu - Shuttle > Sequence of getting more aggressive - Evo 50

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