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Blades, Night Flying and Painting > Painting FG canopy
 
 
beidle99
Senior Heliman
Location: Woodbury, NJ

I had a canopy that came with my used raptor, paint job was basic and visibility was low (silver top with orange bottom) I have since sanded that paint off and filled any high low spots and sanded again. I plan to shoot it with primer before laying out my design. Couple of questions as this is just a trial run at painting FG for me (painted lexan car bodies for years)

can I shoot the primer with krylon rattle can car primer?

I was planning to shoot my base color (yellow) with rattle can hobby grade paint, is pactra or testors ok?

I was planing on taping off the wind screen and other designs after primer and before my base color and then painting them after removing masks and doing any fades, shadows and details with my airbrush. Does that make sense?

as for the fades and designs can I shoot them with water base? or are laqures required before clear coat?

A friend owns a body shop so clear coating with auto grade is not a problem.

Sorry for the questions but I couldn't find all the info I needed.

Thanks,
Nick

Who raised the ground since I took off?
04-07-2008 03:04 PM
 
 
Bill Ludwig
Veteran
Location: Tucson, AZ

Hi Nick,

First, if you haven't sanded all the paint off, you should use a 2-part epoxy primer to seal the old paint from the new. If you've sanded it all off, you can just use rattle can primer. You don't even have to use primer if you have a perfect finish already (unlikely).

Yes, you can use rattle can paints -- I'd recommend lacquers. Just stick with the same paint throughout your project for best results.

I always paint the windscreens last -- it's a lot easier.

Here is a step-by-step from my website that may be helpful:

- Sand the entire canopy with 220 grit paper to remove all gloss - use it wet - do not use a block.

- Smooth over the center seam with a lightweight fiberglass filler like Evercoat (available at most auto paint stores). When cured, block sand the seam with 220 paper wet.

- Spray on a couple of coats of automotive primer. Let it dry.
Spray on a light 'guide coat' of black lacquer. Don't worry about getting good coverage.

- Sand all of the guide coat off with 220 wet. You will easily see your low spots using this method.

- Repeat the priming, guide coat, sanding process (if required) until there are no more low spots.

- Sand with 400 grit paper - wet. Yes, the paint and clearcoat will easily fill in the sanding scratches.

- Apply your first color coat(s) - a light coat first just to get the surface sticky, then follow with one or two 'wet' coats.

- Apply any graphics.

- Clear coat with automotive clear. Do NOT use the clear coat you get in spray cans. It will yellow and is NOT fuel proof!
04-07-2008 03:14 PM
 
 
bryan nelson
Heliman
Location: Ridgecrest C.A.

also dont forget if your going to use any neon colors id use a two part primer so any of the filler dont blead through!!!! if you didnt need to use any filer "bondo" then you dont have to worry about bleed through!! cause it sucks when it does!!

Airtime Grafix
04-07-2008 09:38 PM
 
 
beidle99
Senior Heliman
Location: Woodbury, NJ

Thanks for the replies guys. I am hoping that I don't need bondo either but I have a can ready just in case.

Who raised the ground since I took off?
04-08-2008 01:20 AM
 
 
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Blades, Night Flying and Painting > Painting FG canopy
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