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Autography FlightPower . Advantage Hobby . Revolution Models

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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > RAPTOR 50 Head Setup - Mixers
 
 
NORTHERNLIGHTS
Veteran
Location: Riverview FL

First you can get the bushings that slide into the link that attaches to the grip. NOT the stock sleeve! Kasama uses these on his Tail assembly. It will take a major portion of the slop out. Be sure the ball, and link from the control rod is smooth, but not loose "sloppy" real important. Also the slider is smooth. All these can add up, and slow a tail down. I don`t know how many sets of tail grip bearings I have seen that were bad. If you can feel it at rest imagine the feel at 10k rpm. I have tried many, many types of tail blades, and the CYE 95`s always end up back on the Titan, and XeroG.

Hope this helps.

B.O.A.T. Break Out Another Thousand!
03-18-2008 03:34 AM
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MoneyPitVictim
Veteran
Location: Dayton, Ohio

All good tips. Time to inspect the tail and check for all things that you mentioned. I may have some bushings machined to fit the grips snug-lier.
Thanks!

Edit: Would 95mm tail blades clear the mains on the old R50 boom? (not titan)
03-19-2008 02:23 AM
 
 
jschenck
Elite Veteran
Location: La Vista, NE.

I have removed slop in the tail by putting a drop of epoxy on the screw then sliding the sleeve on it. Let it set and install 'em. This also holds with other places that have sleeves over the screws.

...yep...
03-19-2008 03:49 AM
 
 
NORTHERNLIGHTS
Veteran
Location: Riverview FL

I have seen 95`s with the standard boom, but I would hesitate to do it.

B.O.A.T. Break Out Another Thousand!
03-22-2008 06:41 AM
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sab-rc
Heliman
Location: Spain-Madrid

i wonder why you want +-15º??

i tunned my chasis to handle +-12º without any rotor mod.

I havent tried already that. I think we dont need more than 10º to do great 3D.

I love the new 8,7 gear ratio, but trying the original 8,5 with more than 10º i consider that a big mistake, what you get is a fall of rpm.
03-22-2008 12:23 PM
 
 
MoneyPitVictim
Veteran
Location: Dayton, Ohio

Quote 
but trying the original 8,5 with more than 10º i consider that a big mistake, what you get is a fall of rpm.

Not when you have a YS61 wedged in the chasis!




the difference between genius and insanity is a fine line, and that line is a mile behind me...
03-22-2008 09:02 PM
 
 
baby_zyklon
Key Veteran
Location: Singapore

sab-rc,
this mod is not only about increasing the pitch range, but also to lower the flybar ratio. I would think how much pitch to run for 3d will also depend a lot on what blades and engine/muffler you are using. IMHO, if you are running anything along the line of funkey/Rotor tech blades, 10degree of pitch is only enough for very basic flip flop flying. Can't speak for other blades though, except the GCT that worked pretty ok with lesser collective pitch. When I was running +/-10.5(on the stock mechanism), my raptor felt slow, disconnected and just not biting the air. For instance, if you are doing something like "the wall", the heli doesn't quite stop at the instance you want it to. Maybe its because of a lousy pilot(me), but increasing the pitch range made a BIG difference for me.

12degree is good, 12.5-13 is perfect. I haven't had the chance to try +/-14, but I think it might be too much to manage. At 12degree of collective and 7.5 on the cyclic running the 8.5 ratio with RT610mm, you really need to push both sticks together to the extreme to bog the heli.

I have tried both the 8.72 and 8.5 gearing and tbh, I prefer the 8.5. The 8.72 was great for stuff that continously load the engine like 4point tic-toc, but the 8.5 gives much more headspeed w/o reving the engine off it arse. That extra headspeed @ the same engine rpm gives a weekend stick banger that "pop" feeling. Just takes a bit more management in other manuveurs. But of course, its all just down to personal preference.
03-23-2008 02:24 AM
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sab-rc
Heliman
Location: Spain-Madrid

thank you for your answer, thats a good point of view, but i ve never tryied funkey/RT blades.

Personally I m using radix 600 and sab 600 115g, i prefer the lighter sabs (i didnt choose my nick for this blades).

i m going to try the next weekend the V blades 600 TST to choose the blades wich i m goint to use in the spanish 3DX.

I m practising a lot of maneuvers that loads too much the rotor, and i felt with 8,5 that HS was falling down in every heavy load maneuver.
03-23-2008 08:50 AM
 
 
MoneyPitVictim
Veteran
Location: Dayton, Ohio

Finally I get mine done. I had made the mistake to buy the GeForce mixers before I learn about the seesaw mod for reducing the flybar ratio. Well after redrilling the seesaw, the GeForce mixer's boss is too fat and hits the head block. Bring out the friend with the lathe; redo the bearing location on the mixers and grind a bit off the inside, add the spacer and Viola!

03-25-2008 04:33 AM
 
 
kaotickc
Heliman
Location: Houston, Tx

On a stock titan, can you just put the 90 washout arms on to get a few degrees more without re-drilling the seesaw?
03-25-2008 03:14 PM
 
 
MoneyPitVictim
Veteran
Location: Dayton, Ohio

Yes

The longer mixers and the seesaw mod are independent of each other. The washout arms need to be modified just a bit as shown in this picture (original from S Bell)


Quote 
Below left to right are 30 degree, stock 22 degree, and 32 degree mixers.


The one on the right is an R90 sized washout arm. I believe the one of the left is the same but trimmed down.

When you add the new position hole on the seesaw everything lines-up beautifully with no mechanical binding. However, the mechanical binding you may see using the stock pivot hole will very likely not occurr when the rotor is in motion. Read the entire thread, specially the long post from Steven Bell.
Good luck

Santiago
03-26-2008 12:25 AM
 
 
Richardmid1
Senior Heliman
Location: Leeds, England

I have a quick uk head on mine, could I simply drill and tap another hole slighty further in on the longer side of the arm rather than getting another set of arms and spacers etc?
Actually if I did that the blades would tilt more than the flybar when rocking the flybar by hand, is that what flybar ratio is all about?

Eat, sleep, 3D, crash, repair, repeat...
04-16-2008 10:26 AM
 
 
Richardmid1
Senior Heliman
Location: Leeds, England

I have just this minute finished drilling and tapping the arms and I now get +/-12 degrees collective pitch! I was wrong about the blades tilting further than the flybar and there is no binding anywhere! It took like 10 mins to do! Can anyone think of any reason why it wont fly properly now ive done this?

Eat, sleep, 3D, crash, repair, repeat...
04-16-2008 11:53 AM
 
 
Jared Granzow
Heliman
Location: Columbus, OH

....
04-16-2008 03:10 PM
 
 
Richardmid1
Senior Heliman
Location: Leeds, England

A closer inspection revealed some binding at full negative and about 5 degrees of cyclic, the part that was binding was the long rod from swash to the mixer arm binding on the head block. I ground down the head block with a dremel and it did the trick. Ive had a little hover with it tonight and it has far better response on climbouts with that extra 1.5 degrees and it still hovered just as stable as before. I will eventually get another seesaw and drill it slightly further in to eliminate the binding, the quick uk seesaw is a funny shape and is too hard to drill a hole further in.

Eat, sleep, 3D, crash, repair, repeat...
04-16-2008 08:12 PM
 
 
PJRono
Senior Heliman
Location: Ham Lake, MN - USA

The stock TT flybar carrier will fit right in there. Then you can drill and tap the holes 4mm further in.

The Crappie Flop is my favorite dance!
04-16-2008 09:04 PM
 
 
moyesboy
Heliman
Location: uk

This thread makes interesting reading.
I currently get 11.5 degrees of collective on the std arms by elongating the kidney hole in the frame a little and geting max possible throw on the metal pitch frame.
this was a lot better than std. But nothing like the pop of my 600n.
i'm interested to know how much is from the pitch throw and how much is due to the weight difference, so I may well try this mod with the upper arms.
04-20-2008 08:36 PM
 
 
PJRono
Senior Heliman
Location: Ham Lake, MN - USA

Well with the mod you can get 16* of pitch either way without elongating the kidney bean hole.

The Crappie Flop is my favorite dance!
04-20-2008 10:21 PM
 
 
PJRono
Senior Heliman
Location: Ham Lake, MN - USA

Here's the link to the original post.

http://runryder.com/helicopter/t413916p1/

The Crappie Flop is my favorite dance!
04-20-2008 10:23 PM
 
 
merlin3
Senior Heliman
Location: ohio

can anyone give me the part # for the bearing for the raptor 90 3d mixing levers? I would like to do this mod but am not sure which bearing I need to order with the levers.

Justin
05-01-2008 03:29 AM
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Thunder Tiger Raptors 30-90 - Imperio > RAPTOR 50 Head Setup - Mixers
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