RunRyder - Walkera 4#3

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e-Walkera Helicopters > Walkera 4#3

helicraze
Veteran
Location: Victoria - Australia

Its same as walkera 4, just under 450 size but FP. Quite boring, to big for indoors and too light for outdoors

05-28-2008 01:03 PM

R0XoRiZoR
Senior Heliman
Location: Austin, Texas - US

I love the 4#3 v1... i fly it daily, and im probably on 300-400 charges by now... i fly from 5pm-10pm battery after battery. i have only had to replace the main motor once, and i've added some heatsinks to the motor.

This is by far the easiest heli i have ever flown... And i currently fly a rex 600e, blade cp pro, and have flown a rex 450 for a few months. This is just an awesome machine.

I ordered up all the metal head bits from a vendor in australia, should be here next week.

Why replace it when it works fine? Get the bling and keep flying :-) 2.4ghz for me is overrated. I fly the crap out of my heli in the center of a datacenter. If it was going to glitch.. it would have already.

06-05-2008 05:02 PM

Funky Trex
Key Veteran
Location: Westerville, OH - USA

The 4/3 can be a lot of fun flying around the house

06-05-2008 05:17 PM

helicraze
Veteran
Location: Victoria - Australia

I got my 4#3B and i can tell you the 2.4G is good but the GYRO is crap.

It does not hold at all like the previous versions.
I'm selling my 4#3B!

06-05-2008 10:38 PM

jkbro
New Heliman
Location: seattlewa

weak rudder

when I throttle up very hard from just a hover, the rudder falls behind & the craft spins counterclockwise, I can't hold it from spinning. Is this normal for the 4#3? almost every crash I've had is because of this.
I purchased 2 at the same time, one for my brother and they both do it.
perhaps its a bad batch? I could send them back but it would be a hassle - I got them from china.
can somebody help?
thanks

06-06-2008 02:45 AM

helicraze
Veteran
Location: Victoria - Australia

Is your rudder trim ok? Did you let the gyro initialize without moving it?

The tail motor could be on its way out or the bearings gone or the tail pushed on too tight?

06-06-2008 03:02 AM

jkbro
New Heliman
Location: seattlewa

Thank you for the response, I have concluded that the rudder motor is bad on mine, and my brothers is perfect.
my rudder motor has begun to squeal just now.
I thought my brothers was bad too, because he appeared to be having the same prob. but after I tried his before I answered your message, his is awesome.

06-06-2008 03:43 AM

T-rexn8
Senior Heliman
Location: COLORADO

Dude. Sweet canopy!

Flightpower Batteries

06-06-2008 06:52 AM

rccarguy
Senior Heliman
Location: Boston MA

Picked up a 4#3 this afternoon while I was at the LHS getting parts for the bigger helis. D**m this thing is fun!!!

Mine actually flys quite well right out of the box. Yeah, it's a handful at first, but once you learn some of the quirks it's just plain fun to fly.

A closer inspection after three full battery packs of flying around the downstairs den, I can see a few things that could use adjustment, it should fly even better afterwards.

I have to admit I was very skeptical about buying one, even after I watched the owner of the shop fly his around the counter, but now that I've flown it a few times, I'm sold

Now I'm going to have to get another battery pack or two so I won't have to wait for the pack to cool and recharge before I can fly again. Guess I should put a heatsink on the motor too, just in case, and maybe a few spares to have on hand... I told myself after the last heli I bought I wasn't going to do this anymore and here we go again...

I learned to fly on a Trex, I learned to crash on a Blade CP...

06-13-2008 03:30 AM

eggmcmuffinplz
Key Veteran
Location: Valencia, CA

After much anticipation, I ordered one-the regular 4#3. Funkey, where did you get that canopy? Did you paint it?

Super Auto Master Scott
Rexy 450 and 500-DX7

06-25-2008 02:40 AM

Funky Trex
Key Veteran
Location: Westerville, OH - USA

My buddy painted it for me to match some of my other canopies

I still can't believe how much detail he squeezed into that little canopy

06-25-2008 07:40 AM

helicraze
Veteran
Location: Victoria - Australia

thats crazy! I want the canopy!

06-25-2008 08:04 AM

eggmcmuffinplz
Key Veteran
Location: Valencia, CA

My neighbor is an artist, so I guess I will ask him to paint it for me.

Super Auto Master Scott
Rexy 450 and 500-DX7

06-25-2008 11:23 PM

eggmcmuffinplz
Key Veteran
Location: Valencia, CA

Mine came

Super Auto Master Scott
Rexy 450 and 500-DX7

06-26-2008 12:08 AM

eggmcmuffinplz
Key Veteran
Location: Valencia, CA

Its kinda weird. Even with the battery pressed all the way back into the battery tray, it its CG is still good. Did I like get some secret version of it or something

Super Auto Master Scott
Rexy 450 and 500-DX7

06-26-2008 05:21 PM

Park
Heliman
Location: Buda, Tx-Travis

Was doing some nice right hand circles in the living room, got a little high and flew into the ceiling fan chain! Just cracked the canopy, up and flying again in secounds!

06-26-2008 05:35 PM

rccarguy
Senior Heliman
Location: Boston MA

Quote
Even with the battery pressed all the way back into the battery tray, it its CG is still good. Did I like get some secret version of it or something

Same thing I found with the one I bought, looks like Walkera did some running production changes to correct issues found in the first couple batches

Gotta givem them credit, for the crappy rep they've had with their other helis, this one actually flys really well for its size. One tough little bird too, I've bounced it off just about everything in the den by now with no damage. I was a little disappointed to have to replace the main motor after a week of flying 4 or 5 packs every evening, but that's a minor inconvienience.

Got the new 4#3B the other day. If you like the standard 4#3, you'll absolutely LOVE the B version. Lots of changes on the B, to the point that only a few parts are interchangeable, makes for a much better heli, more stable, a lot easier to control, and the 2.4 Ghz radio gear is much superior to the 72 mhz version.

MIA G10 frame set for the 4#3 should be in the mailbox when I get home today, if that goes well, maybe I'll do the CF version for the B...

I learned to fly on a Trex, I learned to crash on a Blade CP...

06-26-2008 06:11 PM

TRACERBOB
Senior Heliman
Location: Panama City, FL USA

Been flying mine about a month. Here's some observations.
Flybar.
The carbon fiber one is weak and the screws that hold it place are too short and really chew it up. I replaced mine with a metal one.

Flybar paddles.
Putting a little positive pitch in them really helps stability. In fact, I noticed my 4#3B came with added pitch from the factory.

Tail boom replacement.
What a pain! I put it in doing FFF and broke the boom, among other things. To replace it, pratice your soldering technique, you'll need it. Things that need to come off are (both servos, the skids and battery holder and the motor. I basically stripped it down to the frame and main rotor shaft. After I snaked the wire throught the hole in the frame, through the boom and out the tail motor mount. I taped the motor down to a large block of aluminum as a heat sink then held the wires down with some more aluminum. Put the smallest tip you have on the iron and tin it. Touch it to the wires and your done. Test before put everything back together. I'm happy to say, it's alive!

While I had it all apart, I moved the links on the servo arms in to the next hole. Test flight is tonight.

Tail rotor.
I've had problems with the rotor and the gear falling off. check yours. I had to put a small piece stiff foam on the shaft to keep everything in place.

Try not. Do or do not. There is no try

06-26-2008 06:32 PM

eggmcmuffinplz
Key Veteran
Location: Valencia, CA

Bob, but cant you just cut the tail wires and pull the boom off? Ive done this on my 52 without pulling the wires through the frames.

Super Auto Master Scott
Rexy 450 and 500-DX7

06-26-2008 06:36 PM

rccarguy
Senior Heliman
Location: Boston MA

Quote
Flybar. The carbon fiber one is weak ... I replaced mine with a metal one.

Yes, a good upgrade for the 4#3, the 4#3B metal part is a direct swap, or just cut one from some 1mm piano wire

Quote
Tail boom replacement...What a pain!

I got used to doing this type of replacement when I had a Blade CP Pro. Slide or cut the heat shrink off the soldered connections back where the wires exit the boom and then desolder the wires. Slide the wires out when removing the old boom and feed them back into the new boom. Sometimes it helps to attach the wires to a single piece of similar gauge wire to help pull them through, depends on how much patience you have for doing that sort of thing. Once the new boom and wires are in place, resolder the connections, remember to put a little bit of heat shrink on the longer part of the wires first. I've nicely reconnected the wires and then found the pieces of heat shrink I cut sitting on the bench next to the solder

I find it easiest to resolder the wires with the tail motor out of the housing, just a light touch of a well tinned iron with the wires in close proximity does the trick. Shrink the wrap and then slide the motor back into the housing, done

Quote
Tail rotor. I've had problems with the rotor and the gear falling off.

Get the tail blades and gear situated where they should be, then use a tiny piece of the same heat shrink used on the tail motor wires on the end of the shaft to hold the blades on, haven't had an issue with the tail rotors at all since I've been using this method.

I learned to fly on a Trex, I learned to crash on a Blade CP...

06-26-2008 08:40 PM

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e-Walkera Helicopters > Walkera 4#3

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