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New & Emerging R/C Helicopters > Esky G Smart Nitro

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Anyone got one? If so give us your thoughts.

http://www.skyhobbies.com.sg/G_SMART_18.htm

11-07-2007 08:03 PM

skypup
Senior Heliman
Location: San Antonio, Texas

I am building one right now. The quality is pretty good. I've wanted one for awhile now. It is 30 size but a lot lighter than a raptor 30. It has an .18 engine and muffler. I think I'll be happy with it. It is not a 3D machine. It can loop,roll and fly inverted. I sport fly and this heli should fill the bill. I like the idea of a smaller engine. Better economy and it should open up more flying areas.

SKYPUP

11-08-2007 03:40 AM

skypup
Senior Heliman
Location: San Antonio, Texas

A few pics

A few pics of the Gsmart.

SKYPUP

11-12-2007 10:01 PM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Photos???

11-13-2007 07:59 PM

Jag72
Key Veteran
Location: 20 minutes south of Boston Mass...

G Smart...

Looks like a Nitro Version of the "Esmart" I am running..

Out of the box it's a decent kit but there are a few upgrades you'll definitely want to get before you fly it..like a metal washout unit and a swashplate ..they are cheap enough..

With a couple upgrades you can 3d fly this thing with no problem...I am running the E Smart and can stick bang that thing just as well as my high end machines.

Roxxters ROCK!!!

11-13-2007 08:14 PM

skypup
Senior Heliman
Location: San Antonio, Texas

GSmart pics

pics

11-14-2007 02:13 AM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Just received my kit today so will start on the build process tonight. This will probably take a little longer than most as I intend to strip down all the pre-assembled assemblies & grease bearings/check for loctite etc etc.

Skypup, can't see any pictices in your replies???

11-14-2007 08:49 PM

Jag72
Key Veteran
Location: 20 minutes south of Boston Mass...

Assembly...

I assembled the Electric Esky and started flying it without disassembling it completely...WHAT A MISTAKE...

Definitely take everything apart and loctite everything....they didn't use a drop of loctite when they assemble these...

Roxxters ROCK!!!

11-14-2007 09:02 PM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Ok, have stripped the frame & regreesed bearings, probably a good idea considering the brown gunk that came out past the bearing seal during this regreesing process! So far I really like the look of the kit quality looks pretty good & the fit not to bad given the cost.

Loctite appears to have been used but it's good piece of mind knowing it is assembled properly (by me). I did find that the engine crankcase backplate screws weren't even knipped up so can imagine that coming out in flight!!

Balanced the blades, only required a small piece of tape on the COG line so I'm quite impressed considering they are only woodies.

Clutch clearance looks a little large but I'll see how it spools up, if it needs re-lining then no biggie as it's real simple to drop the engine.

11-15-2007 10:06 PM

skypup
Senior Heliman
Location: San Antonio, Texas

pics

If you look up a few posts I finally got some pics in the post. Nearing completion and will send more.

SKYPUP

11-16-2007 11:24 PM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Ok the build is complete, hope to do a maiden flight today. A few additional things to look at in building are:

1. No grease on any thrust bearings
2. One of the pitch arms that screws onto the main blade grips was assembled back to front.
3. The linkage rod lenths as quoted don't appear to be at all accurate, I am able to get +/-12 easy though have set it up for +/-10
4. All the ball links were super tight & needed resizing.
5. There appears to be considerable flex in the stock swashplate, I have ordered an HDX500SE metal swash as there is no Esky upgrade that will fit the Gsmart (There is one for the Esmart)
6.Low speed needle on the motor was open two turns, this caused constant flooding & I couldn't get the motor to fire so closed it to 3/4 turn open to acheive a smooth consistant idle.

Will post some photos soon.

11-20-2007 10:40 PM

skypup
Senior Heliman
Location: San Antonio, Texas

Can't wait for your report. I have been told that the engine needs 3 tanks of fuel to break in. At least the old engine did.

SKYPUP

11-20-2007 10:46 PM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Gsmart - first tank

I have run the first tank, the clutch take up is perfect despite my initial concerns. So far just a run up tank in the back garden with quite a low head speed given the rich running motor, started at 2.5 turns open on the main needle & am now down to two turns open.
Off to the field after work for a bit of a session. I've also picked up some 500mm carbon blades(Hurricane 550 carbons) so will fit these at a later date, although this is by no means a 3d machine the carbons will be easier for autos given the small blade disk.

11-21-2007 02:40 AM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Buzzy Bee

Yep that's what I'm calling it as compared to my Raptor 90's it's just like a litte buzzy bee!

I put through seven tanks progressivley leaning the main needle as I went, we are still a little on the rich side but given its an ABC engine it will probably be a few more tanks before it can leaned to right on the sweet spot.

Well I have to say that the little machine surpasses all my expectaions. Its a great little basic aerobatic machine that is fully capabile of loops/rolls/inverted/540 stall turns etc. All of this on the smell of an oily rag in that the run time per tank would be a good ten minutes.

For someone just entering into the hobby it would be a reasonable alternative to the likes of a Raptor 30, fitted with analogue servos & a GY240 its a cost effective option although a little less capabile in terms of flight performance.

I'll try get some photos up soon, if anyones interested I specked it with the following:

JR DS821 - cyclics
JR DS821 - throttle
JR 8700G - tail
JR 770T - Gyro
Align 6amp reg
5200mah Li-On battery

Also another thing to mention is the required amount of nose weight to get the CG on the main shaft. I used a four cell Li-On pack + 2 x AA Ni-Cd's the Ni-Cd's were just for extra weight, essentially you will need to have a fair bit up front to get right on the CG.

11-21-2007 07:18 PM

skypup
Senior Heliman
Location: San Antonio, Texas

set up?

Snappergav

I was wondering if you might share your rod lengths measured between the ball links? I am almost ready to try mine. I am getting a lot of positive but very little negative pitch. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

SKYPUP

11-21-2007 09:21 PM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Hi Bob,

Yeah no problem, I'll measure them & post the info with some photos so all be revealed. As posted earlier it's easy to achieve +/-12 or more.

Gavin

11-21-2007 09:34 PM

skypup
Senior Heliman
Location: San Antonio, Texas

Hi Gavin

Thanks, it will really help. During your first engine runs were you able to get into hover or did the engine need to be run on the ground for awhile?

SKYPUP

11-21-2007 10:46 PM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

No problems getting into a hover, it was 2.5 to 3 turns open on the main needle so didn't get off the ground untill close to full collective. I normally run my hover pitch point at mid stick, so 50% on the stick = 5.5 degress of pitch. Naturally it was slobbering rich at this setting.

The trick with your pitch setup (& you may already be very familiar)is to set your collective stick at 50% then setup all the mechanical linkages at 90 deg from there, starting with the swashplate, washbase mixing arms working up to the top of the head.

11-22-2007 03:14 AM

skypup
Senior Heliman
Location: San Antonio, Texas

Hi Gavan

I'm trying to decide what to do. I bought a Futaba 2.4 ghz and did not realize until after buying it that it does NOT have subtrim. That said, I can't get my cyclics to 90 degrees and need to make all adjustment mechanically. I have it working with tons of positive pitch and almost no negative pitch for autos. I like the 2.4 Ghz but may go back to my Hitec radio with more features?

SKYPUP

11-22-2007 06:11 PM

snappergav
Heliman
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Bob,

The nice thing about Futaba is that the fine spline on the output gear normally means you can always get your servo arm at 90 deg, unlike JR which always needs to be subtrimed to correct the offset.

Are you certian there is no sub-trim option with the 2.4Ghz set? It seams very unusual to me.

I've have posted some pics so hope it may help you also the linkage measurments are as follows:

Ailerion = 55mm (centre to centre of ball links)
Elevator = 58mm
Pitch = 80mm
Flybar to pitch arm = 26mm
Washbase mixing arm to flybar cage = 40mm
Swashplate to pitch arm = 85mm
**The pitch arm is screwed to the main blade grip**

I also noticed this AM when installing my carbon blades that there is significant slop in the head damper rubbers, if I tighten the spindle shaft nuts to compress the rubbers it causes binding in the thrust bearings. I'll spend some time looking at the possibility of shimming the head to remove the play without causing binding, it's probably not an issue anyway given that it's only a loop & roll kind of machine & not likely to cause a boom strike.