RunRyder - Hawk/Falcon Setup

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Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > Hawk/Falcon Setup

SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas

I've forgotten how many times I've been asked or PMed for help with Hawk setup, so decided to put my procedures in a thread for all to see. Please feel free to add to this if you've had success with different things in paticular areas.

This setup assumes a properly built model, and the use of a relatively modern helicopter transmitter, and is applicable to the Falcon as well since it uses the same control system.

Here's my procedure for setting up a Hawk:

Start with the radio system on, all trims centered, and all curves straight (0, 50, 100%). Put the collective stick on the transmitter in the center of its throw, 50%, and leave it there until all rod lengths are adjusted and set.

Install the arm on the collective servo so a 90 degree angle is formed from the output rod, to the ball, to the servo center screw. Adjust the collective rod length so the collective mechanism is in the center of its possible throw (in the center of the opening in the frames).

Install the elevator and aileron servo arms at 90 degrees to the output with the trims centered. Don't forget to offset the balls on the aileron servo so the angle formed from the rod/ball/servo center forms a 90 degree angle on each side of the servo.

Adjust the elevator and aileron rod lengths to make the bellcranks perpendicular to the main shaft. These rods should remain at these lengths and should not be adjusted again.

Adjust the rods from the aileron bellcranks to the swash plate to level the swash. From this point forward, do all cyclic trimming with these rods and leave the bellcranks perpendicular to the main shaft. i.e. Later when flying, if you need aileron trim, adjust one rod longer, and the other shorter, but if you need down elevator trim, adjust both rods longer, and the reverse if you need up elevator trim.

With a flybar lock installed, or with the flybar held perpendicular to the main shaft, and with the collective still set at 50% on the transmitter, adjust the rods from the swash to the bell mixers to get 0 degrees pitch at the blades. At this point, you want the washout arms perpendicular to the main shaft, and if need be, adjust the rods from the washout arms to the flybar input arms to level them, but keep in mind these rods must remain equal length.

Also the mixers should be perpendicular to the main shaft, or level at this time, and if need be, the rods from the flybar seesaw to the mixers may also be adjusted to make the mixers level, or perpendicular to the main shaft. Be aware, however, if you adjust the rods from the seesaw to the mixers, you will have to go back and readjust the rods from the swash to the mixers to keep the blades at zero degrees pitch. Use your pitch gage at this point to get zero degrees pitch.

With the swash plate still level, adjust the Flybar paddles so they are parallel with each other, and both are perpendicular to the main shaft.

Now you can set your cyclic throws in your transmitter for your preference, and collective channel end points to get a suggested -9 to +9 degrees of pitch. Just make sure you do not adjust the cyclic or collective such that you get binding in the system. Set your pitch and throttle curves to your liking, with a suggested hover pitch of 5 degrees. Also, adjust your flight mode collective pitch curves for the pitches you desire.

The throttle is setup similar to the collective, use the 90 degree method on the servo at 50% throw, and adjust the arm on the carburetor so the carb is at 50% throttle when the arm forms a 90 degree angle. Then set your channel end points so you get full throttle range without servo binding. When you first start the engine, be prepared to adjust the channel end point for a good engine idle. A good starting point for “normal” throttle curve is 0, 60, 100%, but that will vary with engine and muffler combos.

Your Hawk is ready to test fly at this point.

SteveH
Magnum Fuel
AMA76186

02-14-2007 Over year old.

the Wasp
rrProfessor
Location: Vt

very good Steve,,

how about a few tips,,

rod ends,,
if your rod-ends are to tight on their balls simply pop the rod ends on and off the ball a few times to loosen them up,,

servo arm balls and tail grip balls,,
these balls are coated, you may need to be polished the coating off to get your rod-ends smooth on them too,,

washout block,,
if your washout block is tight on the main shaft polish the main shaft with a fine grit sandpaper, I use oil to lubricate the sandpaper, when done you MUST clean the shaft, I clean the main shaft well with rubbing alcohol on a clean rag,,

tail grip ball links,,
if you find these short links are to tight in the pitch plate you can remove the pins, remove the links, and use a fine file to file the edges on the pitch plate (not to much now !!), I guess you could use fine sandpaper wrapped around something flat,, when done clean the pitch plate nicely,,

tail linkage guides,,
do not glue the guides to your boom, take a 1&1/2 inch long piece of black electrical tape and wrap it on the boom where your guide will be located, slide the guide over the tape, then use a hobby knife and cut the excess tape from the sides of the guides,, you will now at any time be able to adjust your guides to properly align your rudder linkage down the length of the boom,,

best tip of all,,
buy another Century heli

..

Jim

Jim
the wife wont let me get a Monkey !!,,, damm, can't have anything

02-15-2007 Over year old.

oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Well done Steve:

I think this post should be set up at top of this forum as a "sticky".

02-16-2007 Over year old.

Ts8103
Senior Heliman
Location: Baltimore, Maryland

Excellent job Steve. My and many others typing fingers thank you.

Tone

I don't know alot, but I know what works for me!......................Memiors of a Schleprock.

02-16-2007 Over year old.

SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas

Thanks Guys,

Just wanted to add some things about the tail rotor setup.

When you set up the throws on the tail rotor, first make sure you have the direction correct. When you give the transmitter Right rudder, the tail rotor should move in pitch such as to move the tail of the heli to the Left as viewed from the rear.

Make sure you either use the limmit pot on your gyro, or the channel throw if your gyro does not have a limmit, to prevent the tail rotor pitch plate from hitting the post for the bellcrank when you give full right rudder command.

When you setup the static pitch on the tail rotor (pitch at the center), the way I like to do it is put the system so the rotor blades are parrallel with the tail boom of the heli (one blade straight ahead and one blade straight back). Then with the tail rotor such that one tail rotor blade is sticking straight up, sight down the cord of that tail rotor blade toward the flybar, and adjust your linkage so the line of sight down that tail rotor blade points to the flybar paddle on the Right side of the heli.

This will get your tail rotor pitch set in the ball park for your first flight. This setup will work on any clockwise (right hand) rotation heli.

SteveH
Magnum Fuel
AMA76186

02-19-2007 Over year old.

nerv2112
Heliman
Location: Bellevue, WA

Thanks for the guide I used it and my heli flys much better now (and so do I!). Century should grab this and put it in the manual. I guess they might lose too much cash in replacemnt parts then

02-19-2007 Over year old.

perfesser zero
Key Veteran
Location: Dublin, VA., USA

SteveH...

Where the hell was this two years ago when I got my Hawk

? Just kidding! Thanks for all your efforts Steve. I'm sure after all this time and all the questions I've asked that anyone here that's a Rep or considered a guru (if you will) that has been down this road before and can appreciate all the help you've given in the past and this will certainly help those newbies who need the help. Over time and going from just flying the heli to doing mild 3D I've re-setup my Hawk (and others) three times to finally get it where I think it should be. I see the wisdom in flying with 3/4 stick now, even if I didn't plan on doing 3D. I've now got awesome flying machines, thanks to you and others here on RR.

Later...

Scott!

Tiger 50 - OS 50SX-H
Hawk Sport - OS 37SZ-H
Raptor 30 - OS 37SZ-H
JR 10X/R950S

02-19-2007 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

ket
Veteran
Location: ohio hill country

does anyone know what the distance is from the top of frame to bottom of swash.. when properly set up everything at 0. so I could make a swash leveler.. something that could just be put on, then all linkage set and ready to test fly..

crashing one heli at a time.. still cost major $$$$$

02-22-2007 Over year old.

bellecrank
Veteran
Location: Canada

Good idea Ket

Again, I always wondered why Century hasn't made such a jig (it could be used on their Hawks, Ravens and Falcons). Lost marketing opportunity that is IMHO.

02-22-2007 Over year old.

Steve Boone
Senior Heliman
Location: Walkerton, IN USA

I've been thinking about trying to convert a T-Rex 600 swash leveler to work. I don't own a lathe to make one myself. I think it could be done. I know I really like the one I used on my 450 Rex.

02-22-2007 Over year old.

ket
Veteran
Location: ohio hill country

I dont own a lathe but have one that I can use at work.. but wanting to find measurement before I start.. actually I would like measurement from more than just 1 person to see if there is a middle ground area that will work for all.. I'm not make this for resale or anything like that. and if I can get it right will give design to anyone who needs it. as long as they do not try to sell for profit

crashing one heli at a time.. still cost major $$$$$

02-23-2007 Over year old.

SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas

Although a swash leveler is a good idea, and I use one, the type of leveler you are proposing is not such a good idea. What you are proposing assumes the top of the frames is perpendicular to the main shaft. Is it perfectly perpendicular? I don't know the answer to that question, and would not base my entire helicopter setup on the assumtion it is.

The leveler that I use is a machined disc that slides over the main shaft with a very close fit, and then you align the swash to the disc. It's like an aluminum wheel the same diameter as the outside of the swash plate with a 10 mm hole in the center. With this method you are truly aligning the swash to the main shaft, not to the frame, and it will work on any helicopter with a 10 mm mainshaft.

Should be childs play to make on a lathe.

SteveH
Magnum Fuel
AMA76186

02-23-2007 Over year old.

ket
Veteran
Location: ohio hill country

great idea steve. but I still would like a measurement from top of frame to bottom of swash. with hole drilled to 10mm and distance close for frame and swash . set up tool will be simple to make.. why didnt i think of that main shaft fit.. thanks for info

hey steve can you pose picture? of tool you use

crashing one heli at a time.. still cost major $$$$$

02-24-2007 Over year old.

SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas

Here is the swash leveler and a picture of it with a swash plate on a shaft. You can see very easily when the swash is not level, or square with the main shaft.

The distance between the frames and the swash is irrelevant, as it changes with just the smallest collective change, and the frames are not necessarily square with the main shaft.

SteveH
Magnum Fuel
AMA76186

02-24-2007 Over year old.

ket
Veteran
Location: ohio hill country

thanks steve I'll have one before next weekend.. with mods that will allow me to use on other heli's also... on one model I have screws on bottom of swash plate that will interfere

crashing one heli at a time.. still cost major $$$$$

02-24-2007 Over year old.

SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas

Quote
on one model I have screws on bottom of swash plate that will interfere

Not a problem...the tool works on top of the swash and indicates when the swash is level only.

The tool is really important setting up eCCPM machines because it lets you set the end points on the different channels to get the swash level at the ends of the collective throw as well as the center.

SteveH
Magnum Fuel
AMA76186

02-24-2007 Over year old.

ket
Veteran
Location: ohio hill country

ok but I will have todo inner part as my swash does not have that outer ring

crashing one heli at a time.. still cost major $$$$$

02-24-2007 Over year old.

SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas

It doesn't have to have a ring...you can do the adjustment looking at the four "arms" on your swash.

SteveH
Magnum Fuel
AMA76186

02-24-2007 Over year old.

spank61
Heliman
Location: west sacramento ca

hawk 50

is that set up the same with a hawk pro with os46, and a 14 tooth counter gear?

03-12-2007 Over year old.

SteveH
rrProfessor
Location: Texas