dunno bobj. I have the same setup as you but I definately get the no turn over on the c-spec for sure unless it is stting near tdc. I always finish my flights with the fuel shutoff clip as shawgl suggests. Maybe the cells I am using are just not up to it.
09-20-2006 Over year old.
RockDoc Senior Heliman Location: Middlesbrough, England
Having to charge Ni-Cd's for your starter is a pain in the butt. A couple of Gell cells and a solar panel attached to the top of you flight box is the way to go. I very rarely have to top up the Gell cells, even in the UK's limited sunshine! I have a short jumper lead that allows me to run the Dynatron on 12v or 24v as needed.
Definately recommend spending the money and going for the Dynatron. I went through a couple of 'cheap' starters before getting it and haven't had a problem since. I did however break my K&S starter wand bearing after only a couple of weeks so have not been running a bearing in my start shaft since. Is the Robbe one really bullet proof coz I wouldn't want to spend that kind of money and have it break!
Droid Elite Veteran Location: Deep down in the Southwest- UK
Bob, i think you already answered that you soldered your connections directly to the battery.
Croc clips are bad conductors!!!
Banana plugs even worse!!!!!
Thanks for the customer service by the way
Quotes may have been changed for my own amusement
09-20-2006 Over year old.
Simon - R Senior Heliman Location: uk
ok guys ,good replies so its Dynatron starter with large gell cell soldered straight on to battery !!!! whats the bet i walk in to the local model shop with my list and he just looks at me sorry mate none in stock !!!!! ha ha
09-20-2006 Over year old.
miataguy Veteran Location: Santa Barbara, CA
I had 2 K/S wands before I understood they were crap. The Robbe one is much better and I've been using it over 2 years now with no problems.
hey miataguy. I have the K&S. When I hard mounted it to the starter it shook like anything. It isn't the shaft but more the one way piece. I can really only use it when in a soft rubber cone. (and then it doesn't fit tight as the end that fits in the cone is smaller. Is this what you have found or something else?
09-21-2006 Over year old.
RockDoc Senior Heliman Location: Middlesbrough, England
Another trick to start a 90 with standard starter is loosen up the glow plug a bit, turns over the engine, when it starts up, tightened up the glow plug.
Yep there is only one starter shaft that lasts and that's the Robbe one, part # S-1387, it's expensive but you will only buy it once unlike other starter shafts
The bushing in the KS slipped like crazy then the one-way eventually gave out after about 6 months, on two of them! The one I HAD was purple and the wand was held in place with 2 friction set screws. The Robbe has been problem free for over 2 years.
sestcourt Senior Heliman Location: Bracknell, Berkshire, UK
The best way to stop the K & S starter slipping on the plastic sleeve is to drill your output shaft from the starter... Mines pinned and has been working trouble free for 912 days ;o)