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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > How to repair burned out Blade CX 4-in-1 controller
 
 
dbacon
Heliman
Location: Shelby Twp, MI, US

jcdetroit,

I never tried with a voltmeter, but I imagine with it on DC, it would vary from 0 to battery voltage as the waveform is changed. Again I am just imagining that the waveform is a PWM signal, but that is the most logical.

I can't read mine for you until I solve my reception problem caused by knocking "C28" off the front of the board.



CAN ANYBODY tell me what "C28" is? I tried a .01 mfd, but it didn't work. It did recognoze the transmitter when I pinched the old C28 tight against the board, but one lead is broken off, and I would get tired hanging off the nose of the Blade, flying around.
03-27-2007 Over year old.
 
 
jcdetroit
Senior Heliman
Location: Redford MI

With all the help you have given me,I wish I knew what it was to help you out. Sorry .

Helis are like crack.
03-27-2007 Over year old.
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

I'll take a look at mine when I get home tonight.

-fox
03-27-2007 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dbacon
Heliman
Location: Shelby Twp, MI, US

Thanks stickyfox.
I should have taken a closeup picture of the component, but it is a small black cube about 1/4" x 1/4" x 3/16" with "C 28" on it, which must be the value. I see no polarity marking, so I don't think it is an electrolytic, and the DC voltage in circuit is about a tenth of a volt, so It wouldn't be a good place for an electrolytic.

I had some mylars like this, bright yellow, .01 and .001, so I cleaned out the holes and put in the .01, but no luck.

I don't have a capacitor checker, or I could check the old one, which has one lead snapped off flush with the bottom of the cube.
Maybe I will have to phoney something up with an AC source passing current through it to my meter.
03-28-2007 Over year old.
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

I can't find any similar boards in my junk box, but looking at what I do have, and the datasheet for the 31136, I think I can guess what it is: a piezo resonator used by the FM detector. The dimensions and numbers look about right for a Murata CDBM455C28. This part is no longer made afaik, but there are replacements out there.

It would also resemble a capacitor if you tested it, and would fit in with your voltmeter findings.

I'm sure you could just grab one off of another receiver. So many people have converted their Blades to Spektrum, there must be a landfill heaping over with 6-channel receivers by now. I think I can find a damaged one lying around if you want me to look.

-fox
03-29-2007 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dbacon
Heliman
Location: Shelby Twp, MI, US

Hi StickyFox

I just saw this post, sorry for the delay, but take that as no indication of how anxious I am to get the Blade running. I would love to get another one of these parts, can I get it from you?

How do you know so much about these boards? I am impressed with your depth of knowledge, and how current you are on these components.

Thanks again for the help.
04-02-2007 Over year old.
 
 
sdf_beanhead
Heliman
Location: Austin, AR

I am having some of the problems those above had... I am having problems finding alternate locations to jumper to. I do believe I have a problem with the two leads closest to the motor plugs along the edge of the board. When I continuity test those I get a tone on the first three pins (counting from the corner of the board in). On the other set of pins, I get tone on the fourth pin only. The 2nd trace from the edge on the opposite side of the IC (the side with the signal inputs) was burned pretty bad, where can I jumper to with this?
04-06-2007 Over year old.
 
 
sdf_beanhead
Heliman
Location: Austin, AR

Sorry to post back to back, but I do believe I have another blown component on the flip side of the board from the FET right by the solder pads for the motor pins. I see some of the goo like was blown all over the other side of the board. What part is this
04-06-2007 Over year old.
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

Is the component on the back the freewheel diode? Those are the two components closest to the motor leads in the photos on the previous page.

-fox
04-06-2007 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dbacon
Heliman
Location: Shelby Twp, MI, US

StickyFox,

Thank you very large, You are a great asset to our hobby.
I'll PM you.
04-14-2007 Over year old.
 
 
dbacon
Heliman
Location: Shelby Twp, MI, US

StickyFox,

I promised I would update you on my Blade CX board repair, but I still haven't good news yet.

I put in both of the resonators, and the board acted different, so it seemed like they were doing something, but it still ignores the transmitter. I turn on the transmitter, then the receiver, and I get a red LED on the 4 in 1 board, then it goes green, I get excited, and it goes back red. It blinks back and forth, red-green and doesn't change with the transmitter on or off.

So I found the old resonator, and scraped at the stump left when one of the leads was sheared off, finally got a very fine wire-wrap wire soldered to it. I gingerly installed it to see if that made any difference, but it acted the same as your two resonators did.

Next I will swap crystals with some other transmitter/receiver set around channel 50, but I can't be certain that would be a good test, as the crystals would come from JR or Futaba radios, do you think that would be a compatable crystal set? I just don't know the issues with crystals, if they require some sort of matching or something. Looks like I am not very good with resonating things...
Being an old fart, I am pretty proud of my successful transition from tubes to transistors. But I didn't get much farther...

I have hope for this, as the crystal took a good whack with my unscheduled landing, bent the pins on it, so it was likely it damaged it. Any comments??
04-17-2007 Over year old.
 
 
stickyfox
Key Veteran
Location: Troy, NY, US

I found some documentation after I sent you those resonators. Apparently the ones I sent you operate at a much lower signal level. I'm not sure they'll work as replacements. Sorry to hear you had no luck with them.

The crystal can definitely break if it takes a hit. It can also change its frequency dramatically if a chip breaks off. It's worth trying another crystal IMO.

-fox
04-17-2007 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
jcdetroit
Senior Heliman
Location: Redford MI

Sory for the all too late response.Work,family stuff and computor down at work(fried hard drive lost all my favorite links R/C sites,vendors etc)
I want to say thanks for all the help on this issue,too many names to mention, but you know who you are. Thanks.
Well I tried the repair dBacon told me about,even went the extra mile and sent some parts for repair.sadly though, it didn't work like I'd hoped it would. looks like another part was fried just don't know which one.
Well just about the time I was ready to chuck the RX out the window,a $40 coupon from my LHS came in the mail.
Well,bottom line,for $10 dollars more,I replaced the part. Yes I broke down and did it.But now it works.
And I'll be sure to instruct my ten year old son the correct procedures on what to do when the heli crashes to the ground.
Son,I love you but, SHUT DOWN THE THROTTLE! Please.
Again,thanks to all for the help.I know I'll be back for more tips and advise in the future.After all we fly helis,they never break.Right?

Helis are like crack.
04-26-2007 Over year old.
 
 
darticus
New Heliman
Location: sparta, new jersey-usa

CX2 4 IN 1 HELP

On my 3rd 4 in 1. Efite says this is rare to happen. The 4 in 1 lasts about 4 weeks and than it starts causing the flight time to drop from 12 mins to about 2 mins and another $59.00. Does the CX2 use a different 4 in 1 or is it the same. They say its a new design for the 2.4 radio. Got to try and fix something to save the farm. Can't fly at these prices. email ron222@earthlink.net
04-28-2007 Over year old.
 
 
puma1824
Heliman
Location: Maryland, USA, MHA Member

I have a burned out 4-in-1 from my CX2 and it looks like it was a 7413. Is there an upgraded FET I can install? Which 7413 should I purchase? There's many different ones.

Has anyone tried stacking FETs? I know with Xmods and Mini-Z cars many have stacked FETs to run hotter motors.

Is there anything else I need to replace? Is Digi-Key the best place to purchase replacements?
02-27-2008 05:25 PM
 
 
Whopper Chopper
Senior Heliman
Location: Atlanta, GA

Someone please chime in on this....

"Helllooo Roto"
03-07-2008 03:40 PM
 
 
JaDO27
New Heliman
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Diagnosing a burnt out 3-in-1 or 4-in-1

Bought a used CP Pro off a friend and noticed everytime I try and turn on the heli the throttle is stuck on full, no matter what I do. Tried reversing the controller, when I hook the tail motor up to the main motor it just runs on full too. Is my 3-in-1 bad? fried?

Also I have an extra 4-in-1 and im not sure why I cant just replace the 3 and other transmitter in front with the 4. Im not running an aftermarket gyro. Is it that the external wires dont match up to the locations?

-James
04-02-2008 08:30 AM
 
 
cionjay
New Heliman
Location: LA

a little confussed

This is the type of board that i have. I orderd the 9707 MOSFET from Digikey ( very fast shipping ) I understand how to solder and bridge the legs from the diagram, but I'm not sure of the placement of the MOSFET. I was wondering if the MOSFET should be placed within the yellow square even though there was never a chip in that spot or should the chip in the red square be replaced with the modifications stated in the diagram. Thanks for any help on this

04-18-2008 05:39 AM
 
 
rajiheri
New Heliman
Location: Chiba, Ichikawa, Japan

Possible replacement for the IRF7413

Hello guys.

I just burned my CX2 receiver as well. The IC is the IRF7413.
I did some research and found this:

Package SO-8
VBRDSS (V) 30
RDS(on) Max 4.5V (mOhms) 13.0
RDS(on) Max 10V (mOhms) 10.0
ID @ TA = 25C (A) 13.0
ID @ TA = 70C (A) 10
Qg Typ (nC) 9.5
Qgd Typ (nC) 3.0
Rth(JC) (K/W) 50 (JA)
Power Dissipation @ TA = 25C (W) 2.50
Part Status Active
PbF PbF Option Available
Package Class Can Surface Mount with Leads

so at 25C it can handle 13amps and 10amps at 70C

Then I found a possible better replacement the IRC7836

Package SO-8
VBRDSS (V) 30
RDS(on) Max 4.5V (mOhms) 7.1
RDS(on) Max 10V (mOhms) 5.7
ID @ TA = 25C (A) 17.0
ID @ TA = 70C (A) 13
Qg Typ (nC) 18.0
Qgd Typ (nC) 5.8
Rth(JC) (K/W) 50 (JA)
Power Dissipation @ TA = 25C (W) 2.50
Part Status Active
PbF PbF Option Available
Package Class Can Surface Mount with Leads

This one can drive 17amps at 25C and 13amps at 70C. This one is the highest I could find that match same characteristics, package and pin-out.

I am planning to order one and see what happen, anyone has any experience with this ? or any suggestion?

Thank you.
06-10-2008 05:32 PM
 
 
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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > How to repair burned out Blade CX 4-in-1 controller
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