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e-Venom Air Corps Night Ranger - Ocean Rescue > Venom Night Ranger 3D

mike50
Heliman
Location: hazleton, pa.

and where can i buy the venom 3d heli, and more impotant the parts?

02-27-2006 Over year old.

mike50
Heliman
Location: hazleton, pa.

and one more question. i tried to fly my cp outside very light winds and i t was not fun. how is the venom?

02-27-2006 Over year old.

Martin_gsxr
Veteran
Location: Montreal, Canada

Hi RAK402,

http://www.hobbyjapan2000.com/store...p?prod=DRAFL22E

http://www.rc-expert.com/product.php?pid=111

03-01-2006 Over year old.

johnnyshore
Heliman
Location: Twin Cities, MN - USA

Video of the NR3D at the track...

Had a buddy of mine shoot a quick video of my NR3D...we race at the track on Tuesday nights, and fly heli's between rounds.

Enjoy...

http://65.27.114.207/novellahub/vid...Ranger_heli.wmv

03-02-2006 Over year old.

wxerman
Senior Heliman
Location: Monterey, CA

It is funny. I started looking at the Blade which turned me onto the Honey Bee CP2 which lead me to this Venom. I am never going to buy a heli at this rate of mind changing. My two questions for this groups is:

1. How is it in the living room? I have two Trex's I love flying outside when the weather cooperates but it would scare me flying indoors.

2. Has anyone managed to get there Spektrum DX6 working with this heli yet? Looks like it can be done with the Blade and Honey Bee?

I am off to check the RcGroups thread mentioned here. Decisions, decisions.

Jim K.

Wife: "Honey, UPS is here" Me: "Its just a $3 part, honest"

03-03-2006 Over year old.

RAK402
Veteran
Location: Alhambra, CA

Jim,

I do not fly the VNR3D in the living room. It is too quick. I have hovered the Blade in there-it is slower and much more docile.

For indoors I have an Outback Rescue and Blade CX (both coaxials). Both are good for landing on tables, etc.

You could install the Spektrum in the VNR3D, but is would require going separates (i.e. separate gyro, ESC for the main motor, ESC for the tail motor, etc.).

So far, the stock radio in mine works great. It does not have anywhere near all of the adjustments that are in the Spektrum though.

03-13-2006 Over year old.

Chopsy
Heliman
Location: Perth, Western Australia

I have recently purchased a VNR3D. I have a TREX which I love, but I wanted something to thrash around the front yard.

I have flown it about 10 times and yesterday I crashed it. Got a bit silly!

Anyways,I broke the seesaw assembly which is now a modified part that is not shown in any of the diagrams. It is an expensive little sucker at A$25. One of the balls snapped off the linkage that connects the blade gripper pitch link to the seesaw.

Here is a tip to save heaps of money and stop this ball breaking too easily. It is very fragile and the part is expensive. Hopefully something else will break next time that is cheaper

If the ball is not broken yet, jump to step 2 of this mod.

1. Super glue the ball back into position and allow to dry for a while. Step 2 is quite hard on the parts.

2. Using a pin vice, drill a small hole (1mm) from behind the ball through and into the ball. Try not to drill out through the top of the ball.

3. Screw in a tiny self tapper, or machine screw.

This will make the ball infinitely stronger.

I did this and aside from using the supplied second set of blades, had the chopper back in the air within an hour at NO COST.

I have noticed from most posters here and from looking at one member's video, that most people are a bit scared to stunt the chopper. I crashed because I flew around in a tight circle and tried to "spin" back to nose out. The tail response is nothing on a variable tail pitch model like the TREX and that is where I came undone. As I tried to spin around, the chopper started to violently pitch and roll nose in and I was just too slow to correct in time.

This will be a great chopper to hone those nose in skills

Mark

03-19-2006 Over year old.

tenbush
Heliman
Location: Estacada, OR- USA

my first flight

I just reacently flew my vnr and only got it to hover about 2 inches off the ground for about 30 seconds then it nose dived and broke one of something on the main prop. do you have any ideas how to correct the nose dive? i was trying to raise the hover the it pitched forward.

03-23-2006 Over year old.

bayou_flyer
Heliman
Location: Galliano, LA

i am looking for thr best things to get for the nr3D I need a canopy, flybar tray, swashplate, main blades, and tray holders. possibly metal parts if they make them can any one point me in a good direction i am new to this

03-25-2006 Over year old.

boing69
Heliman
Location: powder springs ga

If you need all those parts.. You might as well get the barebone 22E kit.. Identical, and saves you money on parts if you need alot of them.. You can get the barebone 22E at hobbyjapan2000.com for around 60$... Comes with everything except for electronics. They are COMPLETELY identical.. All 22E versions are 22E-z versions now.. Its just the next revision..

03-25-2006 Over year old.

Chopsy
Heliman
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Practise practise practise. If you are new to helis it will seem certain to be faulty. Helicopters are natually unstable. Get some training undercarriage on there and practise, or better still, get onto a simulator and practice.

Mark

03-30-2006 Over year old.

thrasher
Heliman
Location: Perth, Western Australia

I had my VNR3D for a few months and was disappointed with the quality and the price of the spares. Whilst it is an "entry level" 3D machine, the foam blades were very flimsy and the main drive gear gave probs and was always working itself loose. Also, 2 servos stucks and had to be replaced. Got rid of it and bought a T-REX, and have never looked back.

04-02-2006 Over year old.

Chopsy
Heliman
Location: Perth, Western Australia

The VNR3D is not as good as a TREX, but it is not in the same league either. I have a TREX. It is my favourite helicopter. It cost me about $1800 if I count the cost of my now quite old JR388 radio.

The VNR3D is $A300 with radio. The VNR3D challenges you on a different level. You have to really react and fly it well to make it perform, but it will perform.

I am not a great pilot, but I am a good pilot. I have been flying a long time and I consider myself, too old, too slow, or both to do heavy duty 3D, but I like to fly large circuits and do FFF aeros, inverted, backwards flying, etc, which the little NR3D does quite well.

The only negatives I could say are that the parts are a bit too expensive, particularly compared to the TREX. I would also like to be able to use my good TX.

However, I say have your TREX, even some bigger gas powered helicopters, but don't write off the NR3D. It is a great, cheap micro and if you do deck your TREX, you don't have to go straight home.

04-02-2006 Over year old.

RAK402
Veteran
Location: Alhambra, CA

Chopsy,

You sound like you are in the same category that I am. I am old (flying since the 1970's). I also have a TREX and a VNR3D. I really like both but, as you have indicated, they are not in the same class-the TREX being several times more expensive.

The VNR3D is quicker, and more of a handful (the TREX is actually easier to fly). I intend to keep flying both.

04-03-2006 Over year old.

boing69
Heliman
Location: powder springs ga

I had the VNR3D, but then I sold it.. I think the blade cp2 is little better when it comes to the electronics.

04-03-2006 Over year old.

Delamar
Senior Heliman
Location: adelaide, australia

CCPM what is it?

Does the NR3d have CCPM and is this a good thing? Can someone explain what it does and how to use it?

And also, what does the 3d bit do, how does that work?

I just bought a nr3d btw, but havnt flown it yet. Ive been praticing on the free simulator for now. I can do most things from hovering to controlled flight and turning. Do you think this will help when trying to fly the real thing>?

thanks

04-13-2006 Over year old.

RAK402
Veteran
Location: Alhambra, CA

Delamar,

CCPM is Collective Cyclic Pitch Mixing. In case (and most cases) it means Electronic mixing, as opposed to mechanical mixing of collective and cyclic.

Instead of one servo for for and aft pitch, one for roll, and one for collective, with all of the attendant levers and bellcranks normally required to accomplish getting the appropriate collective and cyclic commands to the swashplate, CCPM uses three servos, usually (but not always) mounted directly under the swashplate, at approximately 120 degrees apart. The mixing is accomplished in the radio.

Much simpler mechanically and less potential for the accumulation of slop.

There are, by the way, variations of CCPM, such as in the TREX-Xl CDE, that still use a great deal of linkage, bell-cranks etc.

I am sure others will chime in with better, clearer explanations.

04-14-2006 Over year old.

ghstrider
Heliman
Location: miami,fl

Realflight version of the VNR3D??

I have realflight G3 and addon3 and was wondering if anyone has created a VNR3D on it that is downloadable? I want to practice on the G3 but dont know which heli is close to the VNR3D. Any help is appreciated!

thanks
eddy

VNR3D

05-17-2006 Over year old.

Aschster
Heliman
Location: Mildura, Vic, Australia

Nightranger 3d

Hi, Im just new to the model heli world, I have just received my nightranger 3d and noticed a couple of things that don't seem right.

where the batt mounts under the main aluminium chassis, the main rotor shaft and main gear mount protrude slightly past the chasis and actually touch the battery, also there is a spacer above the main drive gear that has a hole for a grub screw but there is no screw in it, does anyone else have these prob's?

It would be great if someone could let me know ,
Regards Ash.

P.s. also is there an easy way to configure the controller for mode 2 (north American style)

05-22-2006 Over year old.

bluesjunky57
Senior Heliman
Location: banished to the kiddie table

Aschter

go buy some Velcro(hook and loop) material for the battery. It will provide enough space for the shaft, and your black rubberbands will break before long, at least mine did.

For the collet, it is just used as a spacer and does not require a set/grub screw.

If you are new to helis, go ahead and move the linkages to the inner most holes of the servo arms. Make sure and loctite every metal to metal screw on this chopper as they don't come that way.

Make sure you get heat sinks, and it may not hurt to get a spare tail motor, 'cause they don't last too long.

There is a mod on another forum (rcgroup$) that deals with the play in the seesaw? (the thing that the flybar goes through). There is also alot of usefull info on this heli.

This is not a beginner's heli, it is mucho hotter than a BCP. You can learn on one, but it will cost you $'s in spares, ask me how I know

It is however, a fun little bird. When I moved up to a MX400, it was like driving a Cadillac. The 3D makes you so much quicker on the sticks.

Good luck

PS. the alloy parts, from what I hear, should be coming soon.

justa slave to the rhythm
long distance Texas Renegade Rotorz member

05-22-2006 Over year old.

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