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Tandem Rotor Helis Vertol Chinook > chinook question
 
 
webbhost
Key Veteran
Location: england - Leicester

lol well i was also thinking of putting 2 tanks in and putting one each side to double the flying time

I was thinking, putting a un-used engine in the other side would mean that the weight will be more accurate

meh
11-25-2005 Over year old.
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webbhost
Key Veteran
Location: england - Leicester

Biggest problem i would have would be to make the helicopter strong enough in the middle.

To rotate the belt 180 degrees without it binding, i would have to sorten 2 booms, and cut out the back of the tail cases. Belt runs on the tail cogs, and goes to the other tail boom cog to carry on its journey (so theres 2 tails not directly connected)

I was thinking get 2 very strong rods (titanium if its cheap enough) to make one very long skid - and using rear servo mounts to secure the 2 tail booms together, ill draw a pic in a minute, and any suggestions would be cool

meh
11-25-2005 Over year old.
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PaulJC
Elite Veteran
Location: Hertfordshire UK

Quote 
I was thinking, putting a un-used engine in the other side would mean that the weight will be more accurate

i would put a large battery in its place, if you need to carry excess weight make it useful, i would also set it up with electronic mixers which enabled it to be flown with a standard radio configuration, your over complicating things
11-25-2005 Over year old.
 
 
webbhost
Key Veteran
Location: england - Leicester

fair enough, how much do these mixers cost?

Heres the pic



Is there anyhthing i need to know regarding the distance between the two rotorheads, or is it OK as long as the rotorheads are far enough apart to not destroy each other?

Was also thinking, if the skids are going to be the main source of support (being titanium or something else really strong, im guessing carbon fibre gear holders would be a good idea?

meh
11-25-2005 Over year old.
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webbhost
Key Veteran
Location: england - Leicester

hey if i used 2 raptor 50's doesnt that mean i can hover a chinook inverted

meh
11-25-2005 Over year old.
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Phil_Mart
Veteran
Location: Newcastle UK

Quote 
Is there anyhthing i need to know regarding the distance between the two rotorheads, or is it OK as long as the rotorheads are far enough apart to not destroy each other?


Chicken!

You simple make sure they ARE 90 degrees apart on their rotation, assuming 2 blade head. Ohh and of course the flybars dont touch

Ohh, and assuming they dont run out of phase.

And assuming the belt dont break


Philip Martin.
11-25-2005 Over year old.
 
 
webbhost
Key Veteran
Location: england - Leicester

i was thinking of having no flybar, i think it might get in the way of the other blade.

Making sure that blades wont hit would be simple enough, just move them when building it to assure. I dont think i would be able to have a flybar, because blades will be a tight fit, wll probably result in the flybar smashing into a blade and somewhat exploding

meh
11-25-2005 Over year old.
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Phil_Mart
Veteran
Location: Newcastle UK

Have you had a look at my clubs web site Cleveland Heli Club where one of the lads has made a twin rotor job'y out of some gash bits and pieces.

Philip Martin.
11-25-2005 Over year old.
 
 
webbhost
Key Veteran
Location: england - Leicester

yeah ive looked at that.

Something else springs to mind that might be good..

get raptor 90 sized tail boom supports - might be long enough to connect the heli to the other heli's tailboom

Wont be enough to hold it by itself, but its a good start

meh
11-25-2005 Over year old.
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Phil_Mart
Veteran
Location: Newcastle UK

Do a search for a local hydraulics and pneumatics supplier. From them you should be able to source some stainless steel tube, it's not that expensive. I use 6 mm o.d. x 4 mm i.d. for my tail drive shafts

Philip Martin.
11-25-2005 Over year old.
 
 
KC
Elite Veteran
Location: WA

maybe you have got this answered already...

rudder is controlled by turning the swashplate like aileron commands on a single rotor heli...with a catch

if you turn the front swashplate to the left, the nose moves left, if you turn the rear swashplate to the left, the rear swings out to the left.

if you want to pivot around the center of the heli, then the swashplates pivot in opposite directions (controlled by the rudder channel on a model)...so both swashplates must go in opposite directions to turn on the center of the heli

back to what I said earlier...you can turn a twin rotor a mix of these 3 different ways...if you want to pivot left on only the on the rear rotor, you feed left aileron and left rudder

.....if you want to pivot left on the front rotor, you feed right rudder and LEFT aileron...confused its not that bad.

to go forward and backwards, chinooks move the front swashplate up and down (like a collective) you could move the rear one too or a mix of both...doesnt really matter how its done.

the gyro in the chinook models is usually put on the elevator because it is the most sensitive control. the rudder doesnt really need a gyro. they don't have any countertorque problems and are slow to turn.

if I was to build one from scratch, I would use two helis that have tube t/rs and pick a machine known for having strong crown gears....my biggest concern with my hirobo sea-knight was the belt tranny, which would surely slip if you put the thing through its paces...that and it is a heavy pig that I wouldnt want to auto it at any cost.
11-26-2005 Over year old.
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J3DI
Veteran
Location: Oswestry (52.865648N 3.033982W)

That's something i wanted to ask KC, can any of these auto ok??

Your call is important to us.

If it's so important, answer the f*ckin phone!
11-26-2005 Over year old.
 
 
KC
Elite Veteran
Location: WA

I have never autoed one.

....the hirobo is 30 sized and weighs 10lbs. the blades are smaller and thinner than a 30...I think 30s are hard enough to auto...and the f/g fuselage costs 600.00 USD if you can even get one (special order from the factory).....I wasnt going to try to auto it!

I have read about others who have autoed and even looped the hirobo, I'm too chicken
11-26-2005 Over year old.
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webbhost
Key Veteran
Location: england - Leicester

auto one of them things thats good to learn save you £200 one day P

meh
11-26-2005 Over year old.
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KC
Elite Veteran
Location: WA

yeah, and cost you another 4 zillion quid

are you going to make the machine in your design?? you can do that w/o separate mixers if you have a radio with 8 program mixes.
11-26-2005 Over year old.
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J3DI
Veteran
Location: Oswestry (52.865648N 3.033982W)

I know that they're really really expensive but it'd be great to see a vid of someone autoing one

Your call is important to us.

If it's so important, answer the f*ckin phone!
11-27-2005 Over year old.
 
 
webbhost
Key Veteran
Location: england - Leicester

its 8 channel, dont know what programming can be done with it through?

9CP

Any way to create a mixing program using that to prevent buying a £1-200 box to put on the heli lol

meh
11-27-2005 Over year old.
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KC
Elite Veteran
Location: WA

kinda

the old hirobo tandems like mine used mechanical mixing which would work with your radio.

if you want to do it electronically, you need a lot of mixes.... suppose you wanted to do your own 4 servo ccpm control (single rotor)...it take 5 p-mixes if your radio doesnt have it!

thats just one swashplate 3 controls (each requiring atleast 2 servos to do), a tandem is 2 swashplates, 4 controls (minimum 8 mixes)

you could do it electronically with some sacrafices to yaw controls on 8 mixes (your radio probably has 8 mixes in airplane mode)

if youre serious about it, PM me.
11-28-2005 Over year old.
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HeliMart
Heliman
Location: Shrewsbury, UK

Do you know, the real thing is built slightly banana shaped, then when it's all spinning the torque straightens it up. Can't see that being needed on the model though.
11-28-2005 Over year old.
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Tandem Rotor Helis Vertol Chinook > chinook question
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