RunRyder - Moving/Removing BCP Flybar Weights

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e-E-Flite Blade CP mCX CX 400-3D > Moving/Removing BCP Flybar Weights

gmcullan
Veteran
Location: Southbridge, MA

Well, I've been hovering my Blade CP for several weeks now with the loss of only one set of main blades and one tail rotor. In another thread, it was suggested to either remove the flybar weights or at least move them to the full centered position. I resisted doing so, for "everyone" knows that heavier paddles and/or flybar weights results in a more stable helicopter.

In the case of the Blade CP, that would appear to be wrong. As background, I started back in R/C heli's after a 25 year absense. So I had to relearn everything, starting with hovering. All my fixed wing R/C and full size experience got in the way, for while the mind was saying "heli" the reflexes were saying "airplane". Relearning to hover was interesting, as it seemed like a small control input to stop drift would see no or a delayed reaction, requiring a larger control input. This generally resulted in an overcontrolled situation. In fact, that is how I had my crash, overcontrol and occilating back and forth.

I moved the flybar weights in this morning and what a change! Now the Blade CP reacts quickly and predictably to control inputs. Rather than being "touchier" and more difficult to fly, quite the opposite, it is actually easier to hover as well as to transition five or so feet front/back, left/right.

I consider myself a "newbie" in regard to R/C helicopters, and moving the weights really does result in an easier to fly Blade CP. To those that "lurk" on the BB and are new to a Blade CP, I would encourage you to move your flybar weights. It really will make the Blade easier to control.

Best regards to all,

Gerry Cullan

Gerry Cullan,
HB CP2, T-Rex 450 SE & SA, HDX300, MicroHeli Monster, Mini-Titan, Blade 400

09-19-2005 Over year old.

Hoverup
Elite Veteran
Location: Gulf Coast

You are right on target. The next step up in control authority is a conversion to a Bell-Hiller head as is used on the E-Sky CP2. Horizon is rumored to be heading in this direction and until then the parts for this bolt on conversion are available from www-balsaproducts.com at very competitive prices.

Cheers - Boyd
AMA80393
Major USAF
Retired

09-19-2005 Over year old.

gmcullan
Veteran
Location: Southbridge, MA

Boyd, in your wisdom and guidance, can you recommend a thread on this BB that discusses the various rotor head controls? I'm not entirely certain "what" the Blade CP has. The Bell-Hiller system seems to be consistently recommend, but what is it?

Too many years away from heli's, so much to relearn!

Best regards,

Gerry Cullan

Gerry Cullan,
HB CP2, T-Rex 450 SE & SA, HDX300, MicroHeli Monster, Mini-Titan, Blade 400

09-19-2005 Over year old.

zoobie
Senior Heliman
Location: South Africa

Is it better to remove the outside weights or move them to the center so you have both next to each other? I want to move to some loops and rolls, but as soon as I get vertical I seem to stall (HB2, lipo, 370 motor, symm wood blades.)

09-20-2005 Over year old.

pkh
Heliman
Location: Emmaus, PA

Boyd...

What parts are necessary for the Blace CP conversion to Bell-Hiller? Do you need to replace the entire head, or just the swash and some links?

Thanks!

Paul
Two Raptor 50V2s
JR Venture 30CP
Two Shoguns
Blade CP

09-20-2005 Over year old.

Uncivil
Heliman
Location: Tulsa Ok

So it gets easier to fly if you move the collars to the middle? I am still learning hovering myself. I have many other questions but I will start here.

09-23-2005 Over year old.

Draxus
Heliman
Location: Newbury Park, CA - USA

I tried moving my Blade's Flybar weights all the way in and found my Blade to be much more touchy. I was wondering if those here that thought it more stable after doing that were using LiPo's??? Faster head speed and all? I'm still using the NiMh's, as I can't afford the LiPo's at the moment (XMAS maybe...)

09-24-2005 Over year old.

bell1684
Senior Heliman
Location: North Kingstown, RI USA

Moving the flybar weights towards the center makes the cyclic response more crisp. With them positioned out towards the flybar paddles the cyclic response is dampened a bit, which helps when you are learning to fly by helping you to over-control less.

When I was first learning I kept them next to the paddles until i was doing some forward flight, then i moved them in and eventually took them off completely when i started doing more FFF...it makes a nice difference.

Wait until you have some confidence hovering & get used to the feel of the controls before you move them inwards. By that time you'll know for sure what he difference in feel & performance is when you do decide to experiment and move them in.

More questions?
Good Luck!
Darrell

09-24-2005 Over year old.

bell1684
Senior Heliman
Location: North Kingstown, RI USA

Draxus

Lipos are the way to go!

Its like a whole new heli when you make the switch....

09-24-2005 Over year old.

docprego
Heliman
Location: Henderson, NV

Bell1684: What brand and type of LiPo's are you using and which pinion? What are your flight times?

Thanks.

09-24-2005 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

bell1684
Senior Heliman
Location: North Kingstown, RI USA

Docprego:
Currently using a 3 cell 1320mah.

Motor is the 370 9-tooth pinion that comes with the Aerobatic Enhancement Kit (amust IMHO).

Flight times with majority of time spent in FFF & some hovering 15-20 minutes depending on conditions & how well I am flying that day.

Great setup for my style..

Darrell

09-24-2005 Over year old.

bell1684
Senior Heliman
Location: North Kingstown, RI USA

Forgot to mention the Lipo is a Thunder Power....

09-24-2005 Over year old.

docprego
Heliman
Location: Henderson, NV

Thanks Darrell. I have a few more questions:

Are you getting good life out of your main and tail motor with this setup?
Is this one of the Thunder Power Prolite batteries?
Do you fly the entire 15-20 minutes or are there breaks for cooling?

Mike

09-24-2005 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

bell1684
Senior Heliman
Location: North Kingstown, RI USA

Mike
I got 50+ flights out of the tail motor before it needed replacement. The main motor is still chugging along no problem.

My TP is the Gen2 not the prolite...yet

I used to take a break or two during flying, but now i pretty much fly through the entire pack non-stop. I usually start with a minute of hovering to get the trims set, then go into FFF for 8-10 minutes, and finish off the pack hovering while walking back to my car.

The motors come up to a temp & then seem to stay there. The tail motor barely gets warm & the main motor gets warm to the touch.

Darrell

09-24-2005 Over year old.

Draxus
Heliman
Location: Newbury Park, CA - USA

Not to be a killjoy... But....

A couple of things...

First, it seems any post someone mentions LiPo's in becomes a LiPo dicussion as opposed to the topic of the post. Not neccessarily bad, just very reoccuring.

Secondly, no one has really answered my question.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that using LiPo's will bump up the head speed and create a more stable heli... (Gyro effect)

Is anyone else using this mod with the stock NiMH batteries? If so, have you seen improvement??? Or do you, like myself, find it too touchy with the weights moved in (without the LiPo's)?

- Draxus

09-24-2005 Over year old.

stealth916
Veteran
Location: Rocklin, CA

09-25-2005 Over year old.

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e-E-Flite Blade CP mCX CX 400-3D > Moving/Removing BCP Flybar Weights

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