RunRyder - New Blade CP, Should I get the CF blades?

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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > New Blade CP, Should I get the CF blades?

Draxus
Heliman
Location: Newbury Park, CA - USA

First off, I'm new to the hobby...

I tried to get into it years ago, but I had a stretch of bad luck with trying to get a Kyosho Concept 30 off of the ground and got rid of it. More recently I bought a Hornet II and have sunk way to much money into it and still don't have it off of the ground (someday I hope). I've also dumped a few hours into the G2 simulator I picked up around the time I got my Hornet.

Anyway I figured it was about time I got to enjoy my "new" hobby as opposed to looking at it as being a good way to hang another nice ornament from my ceiling.... So I decided to by an ARF. Something already dialed in and ready to go. Something that I know is going to work right. After doing some research I got my Blade CP about two weeks ago. Since then I've gone through about 4 batteries on it (with work, wife & 2 kids, I never seem to have much time to myself) I bought it, a crash kit and a set of training gear at the local hobby shop. Currently everything on it is stock. I also have a peak NiMh/NiCad charger.

I started trying to go through "RADD's Rotary Flight School" as best as I could adapt it to the Blade. While I think it has helped me keep the tail in check, I have since come to two conclusions 1.) The guidelines he provides are better suited to the Piccolo and 2.) I've wanted to fly one of these for too long now to be patient. Given those I have moved onto trying by doing. (Don’t get me wrong RADD’s probably works very well for certain people)

My question comes up with that last weekend I finally scooted the thing around the ground some with the training gear on at a relative's house on their patio. I also hopped it a handful of times as well. I had only two minor incidents. The first time it scooted itself into the garage door before it throttled down all the way and the second was when it veered into a bush as I brought it down from a hop. (Backyard: 2 - Heli: 0)

All in all I'd like to think I faired OK. The only real damage done seems to be that the ends of the main blades chipped up a bit at the tips when then ran against the garage door. There wasn't really any major wobble added from the chipping. Should I bother trying to fix them? If so how??? How durable are the CF blades? Is it better to learn with the CF or Wood blades?

Being a relative newbie to the hobby, is there anything else I should put on my immediate wishlist? I must say I'm not terribly keep on the idea of lipro batteries from the horror stories I've heard of them combusting.

Anyway I hopefully will be hovering before too long.

- Drax

08-23-2005 Over year old.

c mark smith
Senior Heliman
Location: Mt Vernon, Indiana

repair Blades

I'm a newbie too.

Have some hover time in a friends shop, now flying around in my garage, closer,,,,,,,

I've gone through a bunch of Blade blades, and try to stretch them repairwise for a couple reasons, one of which is cost, the second is cheap.

some instant glue helps with keeping the small pieces inside the white wrapper, but I've sanded off a 1/4 inch several times too, blades are a bit shorter but still OK

one set, took 3/4 off, Blade still flew well,,,,,,,,, well sorta well,

a crushed end will increase the drag, and way out on the end is the worst increase, this loads up the tail, requires continued changing of the proportion pot, etc,,,,,

The set on my heli at the moment requires full right trim and a buch of 'held' right stick, makes for some harder flying

I'm still enjoying the fun. When i stop enjoying the fun, I'll get into something else !

08-23-2005 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

FlyHuge
Senior Heliman
Location: Houston, Texas

Invest in a set of lipo batteries and a good lipo charger. I own 2 blades and currently cycle 4 lipos thur it. Use the recommended thunder power or eflite equivalent lipos. I own 2 of each battery and both are good. The thunder power is a little stronger.

The lipo charger I use is the accu cycle elite and can charge two lipos at once. About $150. Follow the charger's instructions and you will be fine. I too was concerned about the lipo fire stories. I do charge my lipos on a metal plate just incase. Never had an issue.

I am also a new heli pilot and have found that if your just learning to do hover's then your blades do no need to be replaced unless your heli shakes heavily or you can not trim your tail motor.

Stock up on wood blades, tail motors, skids and main shaft's.

Some helpful troubleshooting items I have found:

1) Gyro will not hold even after trim. Replace main blades if damaged and/or check blade tracking.

2) Gyro is eratic and tail swing left and right "Not wagging but really swings left and right" during flight even if gyro gain is set high. Tail motor is weak or damaged. Replace tail motor. Even if you only have 5 flight on tail. Replace it. I sometimes get 5 flight on a tail motor and sometimes 50.

I recommend adding the GWS tail fin H001-FD5002-015. Its white and is about $2 bucks. Cut a slit in the side of the fin and wrap it around the boom with a little super glue or tywrap it to the tail skid.

This sits the back of the heli higher so that the tail doesn’t hit the ground as much when learning to hover and your tail motor will last much longer.

Also, be sure to run your motors for about 2 minutes on half speed in water. This seems to extend the life of them.

Hope this info is helpful

Cra$h’n with a Heli good time!

08-24-2005 Over year old.

stealth916
Veteran
Location: Rocklin, CA

You can also stick a piece of fuel line or something else on the bottom of the existing vertical tail stick - to get you up another 1/4" - 3/8" in the back real quick. You could also drill out a balsa dowel and CA it to your vertical tail stick, tape a toothpick or two onto it, etc - if you find you need a little more ground clearance temporarily for training.

The heli will not sit flat on the skids if you do this, but probably a good idea for the first 20 flights or some, until you've got the nose first landing down and can keep the tail blade from whacking anything.

08-24-2005 Over year old.

Radd
Heliman
Location: Nashville

Draxus..

Let me ask you a question?...Do you think if you keep doing the same thing over and over you should expect different results?..This would be strike three for your heli experience and I hope you dont throw your money down a rat hole again..

You need patients or the same thing will happen again and again...you wont even spend to much time in the simulator?...

Dude....have some fun and save your money....Helicopters are all about precision...the slightlest stick movement and your off to races....

The lessons were designed years ago for the piccolo and the Eco-8....but I can tell you straight out...that I have NEVER had a single student crash before hovering out a pack...And once they hover out a pack they are able to fly any nitro on my shelves...

I go back to one of my statements in the lessons...( which I havent looked at in years)....( but still get many possitive e-mails from newbies and hate mail from parts stores....LOL..)...and that is this....

"If you were learning full scale helicopters...would your instructor just let you get behind the controls and ....give it a go??...".....I think not...

take a little time and enjoy....the learning curve with your sticks can be just as exciting on the floor for three days as smashing into the china cabinet and calling the LHS and waiting for the postman....

08-24-2005 Over year old.

Stack
Veteran
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Getting back to your original question.... the carbons.

If you get them, and you still are not able to hover. You will not be happy with the result (in my opinion).

The pros of cf blades are enjoyed by those already flying. If you hit the ground again (and you will) with CF blades. You will probably suffer some more damage.

Just yesterday I made a not-that-nasty nose-in landing and my CFs hit the ground, just slightly. My shear pin is now in 3 pieces, center hub out of whack and main shaft bent. On standard blades I would have probably only suffered a chipped blade.

I would save the blades for later on if I were you. They look great and offer some nice tracking, stiffness, etc... but if you aren't even hovering yet, I wouldn't even think about them. Your money will be better spent on getting some extra parts, another battery, etc...

Trust me ... I have been there. Rushing this hobby does not pay.

08-24-2005 Over year old.

stealth916
Veteran
Location: Rocklin, CA

I agree that adding anything stiffer or stronger than normal to your heli while learning to fly, is a BIG mistake. You are only going to transfer crash energy to other parts. It is easier & cheaper to change a set of wood blades, than a main shaft, main gear, feathering shaft, flybar etc....

Same for metal parts - leave them off. Leave everything as loose as practical to fly. That means your canopy should be on ONLY good enough to keep it on. You are not going into tornado force winds, so don't put it too far on the canopy posts. Barely there at all is good. It will save your posts and canopy in a crash. Same for your tail blade - don't do that wheel collar mod to hold it on just yet.

08-24-2005 Over year old.

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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > New Blade CP, Should I get the CF blades?

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