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Fast Lad Performance . Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC

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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Blade CP tail motor
 
 
AHD
Heliman
Location: New Orleans, LA.

Motor Fix

I have used JB weld applied with a round toothpick around the brass motor ring, after putting the ring back in with a screw driver. Make sure motor shaft still turns. Let dry over night. And back flying next day. Have gotten a replacement motor from Horizon, but was too impatient to wait and decided to try this fix. Still using the repaired motor.


Will work for blades and parts
06-23-2005 Over year old.
 
 
pyrographix
Heliman
Location: the Nasty 'Nati

I was using the stock battery... and it happened with very little flight time on it....

www.PYROGRAPHIX.net
06-23-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
lakespinner2
Veteran
Location: north carolina

When the tail motor goes, does it usually go gradually or all at once?

I've noticed that lately my gyro gain needs to be max'ed out to hold the tail. It used to wag too much at the max gain setting. I'm wondering if the tail motor is starting to fail and needing more and more gain. I'm using lipos along with the upgrade enhancement kit with heatsinks.
06-23-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AHD
Heliman
Location: New Orleans, LA.

Blade CP tail motor

lakespinner2
Check to see if the gear on the tail motor moves a little. Sometime the gear is just bearly touching the plastic gear that the tail rotor is in causing the rotor to slip. If the motor shaft that the gear is on moves from side to side remove, pop the brass ring back into the motor housing and try JB Weld.

Will work for blades and parts
06-23-2005 Over year old.
 
 
willkomassa
Heliman
Location: Waukesha, WI USA

Just wanted to say that I received my new tail motor today - 1 day after asking for it... Horizon also sent me a whole new body to replace the one missing rubber grommet from my kit when I bought it.

Excellent customer service. I thank them.
06-23-2005 Over year old.
 
 
bstock
Senior Heliman
Location: Easton, MD.

They are also sending me a new motor- but it has not gotten here yet. You must live closer to them than I do ;-)

I also decided to repair my motor - if I could. I went into it thinking (hoping) it would still work... coming out of it.

I decided to solder mine. It worked... but be VERY careful that you have the brass bushing back into the motor can... back as perfectly straight as you can.

I also recommend spinning the motor shaft, before applying the glue or the solder. I had to work my bushing in and out a couple of times... before I got it back into the place where it was from the factory, and was spinning as free as it could.

Wish I had checked this before I tried the solder the first time... I would not have had to redo it, and worry about getting solder into the inside of the bushing (into the shaft hole). Ended up using a magnifying glass... to make sure I had that Iron and Solder, just where it needed to be.

Also - one more thought - make sure your Iron is Hot. Do this quickly... as you do not want to heat up the bushing and the motor can - more than you need to. I would have considered the JB weld route first - if I had to think about it again. Glueing dosn't stress the motor as much.

The Good news - the damn thing worked as good as it ever has. I was running a Lipo 900 (Sym blades) at the time it broke... and it actually just spun around in circles (Piro), but with no tail control - but fairly nice even circles down, from a hover (I guess I found the sweet spot finally for the 4-1 *grin*) and I just let it drop down (6ft) to the ground. The motor was very hot to touch... so I thought I maybe I may have fried it then... but it is still kicking - and seems the be no worst for the wear.

I am going to put the new one motor on when it gets here. "Use your best equipment - blades, etc., when you can". But hey - I didn't have to stop flying it. *Big Grin*

Brent
06-24-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
willkomassa
Heliman
Location: Waukesha, WI USA

All good advice. Well I put my new motor on and it has dramatically improved the performance of the BCP -- much less tail rotor gain needed and also much less trim adjusting.

I've also done a cheap, easy, but very good fix on the tail boom support. I took a piece of flybar that was bent and cut the flybar in half, bent a small "u" in one end, then stuck it through the place on the tail rotor support where the wires come out of. I have it held in with a cable tie and it has been working amazingly well. my tail rotor hasn't come off even once from a strike and this also completely got rid of the bushing pop-off problem when I had the old motor in. The flybar wire is a lot stiffer than the original support and very resiliant as well.

I think I'm going to make up some custom landing skids using some similar wire and some aluminum or brass tubing -- should be quite a bit more resiliant and not too heavy. If there's any interest I can post some pictures of this mod and my skids when they're done.

having lots of fun with this little guy and even having some pretty good success with it in the air! thanks to everyone for all their suggestions!

Will
06-24-2005 Over year old.
 
 
bstock
Senior Heliman
Location: Easton, MD.

Hi Will,

I know I would like to see those. Cool - Thanks!

Brent
06-24-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ]1706 viewsPOST REPLY
Real Raptors . Mikado Modellhubschrauber . GrandRC

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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Blade CP tail motor
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