ncostes
Veteran
Location: US
| The head button will suck getting in  I can't get mine in - what a lot of ppl have done is just bore it out and glue it in. I'll end up doing that sometime. I've been flying without one since April...
Things to watch out for when building...
The spacer goes above the upper mast bearing not below (you'll know what this means when you get to that point).
Make sure to JB weld the tail pitch slider like they say to in the instructions. Pay attention to all JB weld and loctite tips in the manual.
Make sure to use the control rod lengths in the manual addendum, not the ones in the manual.
Search on here for hawk building problems, I think Tinpusher started a couple topics like that with what I would consider Hawk IV FAQs.
Learn the easy engine installation procedure for when you have to remove/reinstall the engine (the 8 bolt method). I've posted it a couple times (8 bolts, remove top servo tray ctrl rods from balls, tilt servo tray, engine slides out or in).
If you find "extra" parts in a bag don't throw them away, set them aside - you most likely will need them later.
Have a metric see-through ruler or a caliper so you can check the inner and outer diamaters of the washers and bearings, and the lengths of screws - so you can avoid putting mixing them up during assembly.
Read the manual before you begin, and don't be afraid to look ahead while you're putting something to gether to see where it will eventually end up - you can catch mistakes that way.
Set the N/R switch on the gyro before you install it Place it with the pot facing the right side (fwhen looking from back) of the heli so you can adjust it. Start the pot (gain resolution) at minimum and your radio at about 75% gain, then increase the radio gain till wagging (follow the gyro instructions - no wag, then increase the pot, lower the radio, then come up on the radio).
Install the ball links so that the century logo is facing up (away from the servo wheel) - Andrew (century rep) said they are "handed" that way.
Make sure you use the "weird" links that came with the t/r control rod on the t/r control rod - they are 2mm diameter and the others are all 2.3mm. Using the other ones will cause them to strip out.
Also - notice you have 2 lengths of 2.3mm dia . ball links. Use the short ones on the short rods or as needed to make the rod lengths come out.
Don't open all the little bags : ) use them one by one they go with the steps in the instructions.
Use red loctite on the hex adapter set screw on the start shaft - I used blue over and over again and the screw kept coming out. Once I lost it during flight! I put red in and it's never come out since.
Put a touch of loctite on shafts that run through bearings so that the inner bearing race will stick to the shaft, rather than having the shaft rotate inside the inner race and wear out.
Pay particular attention to posts on here by Oldfart.
Good luck and if you need additional help just post. |
