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XHELI.COM . Autography FlightPower . Advantage Hobby

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e-Electric General Discussion > DragonFly 4CH RTF Helicopter
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

2200 MAH Battery

Crash&Burn, a 2200 MAh 11.1 volt flight pack will definitely
wear down the tail motor quicker than a 7-cell 8.4 volt
flight pack for two primary reasons: increased runtime
and higher operating voltage. Both of the former will
generate more heat which will weaken the magnets
overtime and damage the "whisker" brushes. Here's
a quick test to determine why REVO-mix changes are
occuring in your setup, fly the heli again with the stock
7-cell 8.4 volt flight pack and do not change anything else
within the setup. Try and fly the heli as you did with the 11.1 volt
LiPO pack. After a few flights you should tell if the problem
remains or has gone away.
Tail fluctuations could be caused by a variety of things in a
r/c heli, in fact, taming the tail in a r/c heli is absolutely critical
in my opinion. If the problem goes away with the 7-cell 8.4 volt
stock NiMH flight pack, then the wag may be caused by gyro
drifts and/or other component drifts within the stock Walkera
4-in-1 control board. If this is the case, longer runtimes with more
heating due to the longer duration and higher current flowing through
the 4-in-1 may be causing this, assuming nothing else in the heli
is causing this problem and it is mere coincidence that this problem
has crept up making it appear as though the culprit was the 11.1 volt
flight pack. In any event, I highly recommend removing the stock
Walkera 4-in-1 control board out of its black plastic case and placing
it outside the heli so that the relatively cool main rotor down wash can
help to reduce heating problems. In my humble opinion, keeping the
4-in-1 control board in the black plastic case inside the cabin or can-
opy enclosure while running high capacity 3 cell 11.1 volt LiPO batteries
for consistent runtimes of greater than 10 minutes is a bad idea. Take
a look at how GWS recommends placing the PHA-01 3-in-1 control
board on their helis... If you remove the Walkera 4-in-1 control board
outside of the cabin make sure that it is facing the same direction as
before so that the gyro compensates for main rotor torque correctly.
12-14-2005 03:39 AM
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

Turn on the transmitter first, or plug in the main battery?

Crash&Burn, generally speaking, never plug in
the flight battery pack on your heli before the
transmitter. I always turn on my transmitter first,
then after it is on, I triple check that the throttle
stick is at its lowest position AND all idle up switches
and other toggles are off, then and only then do I
plug in the flight pack to the heli. When you plug in
the flight pack first, unless you have a switch, all of
the onboard electronics will be immediately energized
leaving the heli at the complete mercy to uncommanded
control inputs from background radio interference....
12-14-2005 03:50 AM
 
 
Harmonic33
Heliman
Location: Australia, VIC

Man i finally Flew and Stacked my W/22E

After the Great advise concerning the training gear,(ie two coat hangers and some ping pong balls) i finally flew solo. yeh!!! :-) BUT, with my friends egging me on last week with a few cold one's under my belt i decided to do some 'SHOWING OFF'.......Not a great idea. after all my hard work and setting up, it was all to be smoked off in a blaze of pissed laughter. -(not mine :-( oh, well back to the e-bay order board. happy to see youre on the same 22#E path as me look forward to finnicking,it out with ya. Cheerz,
Dan.
12-14-2005 12:16 PM
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

22E Dreams

Harmonic33, beers and helis do not mix Well
anyway, crashes stink, but they are bound to happen.
Yeah, I guess when my 22E comes in, I will start a new
thread as I believe that I have taken the Dragonfly #4
as far as I can take it. Yes, I could get a 3-cell LiPO
for it, a decent heading hold gyro and some like90
blades which will definitely help it out in regards to out-
door flying, since it is really an indoor machine, particulary
with the stock main blades on or outdoors with NO winds
or very light breezes, but I believe at that point I might as
well go for a CP machine. Harmonic33, it will definitely
be a blind leading the blind scenario regarding my new thread
I want to start on the 22E, since I have never flown a collective
pitch heli before, let alone set one up with the correct throttle
curve/pitch curves, REVO-mix, etc... Does anyone currently fly
the 22E? If so, did you fly a FP electric before like an ESky
HoneyBee or Walkera #4? How does the 22E compare to the
micro FP ships? Well, hopefully I will be able to answer my own
questions soon. Any 22E or 22A or Hornet II flyers out there reading
this thread(unlikely), what throttle/pitch curves are you using on your
setups? If not using the stock Walkera electronics, how hard is it
to setup REVO-mix on a CP heli with a non-heading hold gyro? It
sounds very difficult, because of changes in drag and increases in
corresponding torque with increases in pitch of the main rotor blades.
Does anyone fly with a yaw-rate gyro on a CP machine? OK, enough
questions, I have a lot yet to learn
12-17-2005 07:00 PM
 
 
I_like_to_crash
Senior Heliman
Location: Groton, CT USA

I have flown my shogun with the pg-03 that came with my dragonfly actually untill i got my gy 401. It is not as good as a head holding gyro but there is not essential to have one on a cp machine, if u are good enough you could fly with no gyro.

I perform precision manuevers called crashes.
12-17-2005 11:11 PM
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

CP ships with yaw-rate gyros

I_like_to_crash, that's interesting that the Shogun
could fly well without a heading hold gyro. When you
used the GWS PG-03 on it, was it able to dampen
most of the torque throughout the entire throttle/pitch
curve? How did you maintain REVO-mix, in a com-
puter tranny? How did the REVO-mix hold up throughout
the flight; that is, with falling voltage over time as the flight
pack ran down, did you get some left drift in the heli's nose
and had to compensate with some right rudder trim or was
it pretty stable? Reason I ask is, the 22E has a fixed pitch
tail with a tail motor like an Esky HoneyBee or Blade CP, so
over time, as flight pack voltage runs down, there will be some
left nose drift which gets annoying in my opinion. Right now,
I maintain REVO-mix with a Futaba T7CHP and dampen yaw
with the GWS PG-03, it's not a bad setup and does work well,
but I was thinking that it could get tricky on a CP ship(22E) that
has a tail motor with a possible all "separates" setup to keep the
nose and tail straight throughout an entire flight with that variable
pitch main rotor. I guess, I was thinking, with the CP setup and tail
motor, I would go for a heading hold gyro which should just lock the
tail in place regardless of the state of the flight pack voltage or pitch/
RPM on the main blades? Can anyone confirm this hunch?
12-18-2005 01:01 AM
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

Venom-Aircorps Night Ranger 3D manual

Well, what can I say, this manual rocks. It is extremely
well written, short and to the point, while it contains all
the necessary information for a newbie or even an ex-
perienced heli flyer to get into the air. I just finished re-
ading the manual from cover to cover and I must say that
it is worth its weight in gold. Firstly, it completely explains
the Walkera transmitter and what all the dials/toggles/sticks
and even dip switches do, secondly it covers all the needed
pre-flight checkes needed to get a CP ship into the air, thirdly
it has some really nice illustrations with fairly detailed ex-
planations and lastly, it covers the steps needed to progress
from sliding around on the ground, to initial hovers, to basic
fligh manuevering to advanced sport flying which is the very be-
ginning to 3D such as: the barrel roll, loop and inverted hovering.
Kudos to you Venom-Aircorps for bringing to light how to operate
this heli. I just got my heli in; that is, the 22E, although not a Night
Ranger 3D, it is identical to it except for the coloring scheme. Again,
the manual can be found here: http://www.venom-aircorps.com/manuals/VNR3D_Manual.pdf

I have been doing some searches around the Internet and have started
to find quite a few online vendors selling the Night Ranger 3D, this is
good for 22E flyers, think, spare parts...
12-24-2005 06:13 PM
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

Loctite 680 "green" compound notes

I would like to make a few notes known about this
stuff to other fellow newbie flyers. Currently, I use
this "green" fairly liquid semi-sticky compound to
adhere the Heli Hobby 9 tooth brass tail motor pinion
onto the shaft of my Feigao brushless tail motor. When
I got the agent in, I had no idea how to use it and there was
sparse information about it, although it was touted as
being very good for adhering on motor pinions. I wasn't ex-
actly sure what I needed to do for gluing on the tail motor
pinion so I went to loctite's website and downloaded the TDS
on it; that's Technical Data Sheet. I just decided to clean the
Feigao's shaft as best as I could, put a lump of this "green" goo
onto the motor shaft and then squeezed on the 9 tooth brass
tail motor pinion. As a control test, I also left a small lump of it
directly exposed to the air on a surface to see how long it would
take for it to cure and if it would turn rock hard. I didn't touch the
pinion at all and came back to inspect the setup 24 hours later
only to find to my surprise that the goo hadn't hardened at all and
was as sticky as it was 24 hours prior. Needless to say, I did not
touch the motor pinion at all. I decided to read the TDS to find out
where I went wrong and what I forgot to do if anything. The first sen-
tences put my mind at ease. "LOCTITE Product 680 is a high strength,
single component anaerobic retaining adhesive for cylindrical joints.
The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close
fitting metal surfaces." So, in layman's terms, you don't need a curing
agent all you need for this stuff to work are: two clean tight fitting surfaces,
the compound and NO AIR; that is, Loctite 680 will cure and expand
between the two parts in the absence of air. I hope this helps other
pilots who are not exactly sure how to use this stuff as I was.
12-24-2005 06:30 PM
 
 
mazta
Heliman
Location:

sup dudes,

i have a major problem with me #4, first it would hover for 3-4 seconds smooth as anything, then wobble and crash, did this for a week, i changed the blades, now its not smooth at all, soon as it takes off, it wobbles, and comes to the ground, i've checked evertying i think it can be, wings are new, shaft is straight, trims are all good,

what can cause this, could it be the head speed??? if so, can i get a pinion to make them spin faster, what you think people,

HELP

cheers
01-03-2006 06:11 AM
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

mazta, a wobble on this heli is characteristic of a lead/lag
situation with the main baldes, in other words, one of the
blades is hitting the air before the other blade, since the off-
set angle of the main blades to the flybar are not equal. If
both blades are made from the same mold and weigh the
same and have near identical twist to them, then the wobble
is usually produced from one of the main bolts that hold one
of the main blades to the rotor head not being at the same
torque tightness to the other blade, so when the rotor head
spools up, one blade will lead, while the other will lag. Don't underestimate this problem, if the lead/lag is significant enough,
the heli can literally crash due to severe wobbling and vibrations.
Make sure mazta that the main bolts that secure the blades to
the rotor head are TIGHT being secured with the same level of
tightness and that both main blades are at the same offset angle
relative to the flybar before spooling up the main rotor. Make sure
that both main blades are the same; that is, they weigh the same.
Wobbling can also occur if the blades are not tight and the heli
is in forward flight, in which it loses altitude fairly quickly. I have had
none of these problems anymore after making the blades tight and
using a more robust securing mechanism to the rotor head(bigger
bolts with washers and locking nuts). Hope this helps...
01-03-2006 02:01 PM
 
 
dragon_not_fly
Heliman
Location: US

Modular tail setup(removable tail) Version 1

I am pretty excited, I think I may have stumbled upon a way
of making a modular or removable tail on my Walkera #4.
For a long time I didn't even think about trying to make the
Carbon Fiber tail boom let alone the tail motor mount re-
movable, it just never crossed my mind. I now have 5 flights
on it and have purposely landed hard several times on the
boom to try and jar it as well as sliding around on the ground.
It is still holding at the time of this writing. I have performed
all basic flight manuevers with it as well, piros, forward flight,
gaining altitude quickly, losing altitude quickly, turns etc... with
no problems. OK, now for the details...

[Parts used]
QTY 1 E-flite Blade CP CF tail boom
QTY 1 GWS tail motor mount(the one where the tail rotor is
on the right if facing the rear of the helicopter)
QTY 1 GWS tail support fin(used to support the CF tail boom,
since the GWS motor mount has no tail boom support
rod)
QTY 2 The tiny screws used to bolt on the stock D/C brushed tail
motors(I made sure to use the ones that have the large
heads on them; that is, an integrated washer)

[Parts not used]
NO glue whatsoever or tape!

[How tail assembly was setup]

{Step 1}
I made a hole just big enough for one of the screws to screw into
the top of the GWS motor mount

{Step 2}
I made a hole, very carefully, into the top of the Carbon Fiber tail
boom just big enough so that the securing screw could turn into,
but not so tight so as to crack the CF tail boom

{Step 3}
I pushed the GWS motor mount on as far as it went, aligned it
with the hole in the top of the CF tail boom and carefully screwed
in the securing screw into the top of the mount until it would not
go down any further. It was tight and flush with the top of the GWS
motor mount. There were no cracks detected in the CF tail boom
around the assembly joint.

{Step 4}
Very carefully increased the diameter of the hole in the main frame
of the helicopter using a sharp exacto blade. This was a trial and
error process, I was patient, but I was able to make the hole just
big enough where I could insert/remove the CF tail boom with ease
with no damage to the boom.

{Step 5}
Made a small hole just big enough for the other securing bolt to
screw into the base of the CF tail boom where it meets and inserts
by the main frame of the heli. I made sure that the tail was near
perfectly aligned with the screw out; that is, I made sure that the
hole used in the CF tail boom to lock it into place was accessible
at the main frame and that the screw would go in, while the tail
boom/motor mount assembly was aligned properly.

{Step 6}
After testing the fit of the tail boom with the securing screw and
making sure that the tail boom/motor mount aligned properly in
Step 5, I inserted the tail boom back into the frame of the heli-
copter and then bolted in the securing screw. The securing screw
goes in on the left side of the main frame of the helicopter if facing
the rear of the helicopter where the tail boom meets the main frame
where there is a rounded rectangular cut out, such that, the head
of the securing bolt overlaps or sits on top of the main frame and
then this screws in with force touching the CF tail boom preventing
it from falling out or turning from within the main frame of the heli.

[Notes]
That's it! Two, very light weight screws secure the motor mount
onto the tail boom and the tail boom to the main frame of the
helicopter, no glue, tape, foam or any other securing mechanism
is used! This is huge in my opinion, I can literally remove the motor
mount in 1 minute and replace it with a spare if the mount were to
break. No more potentialy breaking the CF tail boom in the main
frame of the heli and then having to drill out the pieces from the
main frame! If a tail motor mount in the past needed to be removed
I would typically have to hack saw off the mount and then glue on
a new one.....yuck!! Time will tell how rugged this setup is in
crashes, but I think it will be a winner. In the worst case, if anything
breaks, all I have to do is to unscrew up to two screws and pull
something off, I can live with that
01-03-2006 03:37 PM
 
 
9 pages [ <<    <     7      8     ( 9 )    >    >> ]54377 viewsTOPIC CLOSED
Revolution Models . CarbonXtreme . Midland Helicopters

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e-Electric General Discussion > DragonFly 4CH RTF Helicopter
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