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Ace Hobby . Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC

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e-MS Composit Hornet > Tricks of the Trade: Poor Man's Hornet 2
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

This is taken from my posts at www.daddyhobby.com. It was written to help those who owned hornets or want to own hornets but fear costs..... Prices stated are in Singapore dollars.. SGD...

Chapter 1: Crash Cost

First the 4 things that always/almost goes in any crash on the Hornet 2:

1) Main Shaft
2) Brass inserts
3) Brass Insert Screws
4) Main Blades
5) Conical Gear
6) Carbon Tail Drive Shaft
7) Tail Bevelled Gears

If we do a simple addition....Crash cost = $130++ rite? No

Not if u have the following:
( ranked in order of 'must-have')
1) Ms One Way auto kit---$46
2) Titanium Tail Drive Shaft--$15
3) Some Extra 2mm hex screws
4) Extra Carbon rods......
5)!!! Must Have: GWS micro Pinion Puller----$14
It's worth the extra $$$

1)MS-OneWay: Switch out the metal cross pin for a 1mm carbon rod..... file the rod on the ends so that it'll not fray when u push it thru the metal sleeve and the main shaft..... This way... when your blades strike something, your carbon cross pin would snap first..... In a crash, u'll save the tail gears, conical gears and ur tail drive shaft.

Also... even if u do not do this mod, with the oneway, ur conical gear, tail gears and shaft will stop spinning once u cut throttle..... lNo more stripped tail gears! .... In the worst scenario, u'll only have to change ur conical gear

UPDATE: This carbon cross pin trick is only good for mild flying... if u're doing acrobatics a better choice would be using body pin clips from R/C cars.... These clips can also be sheared... but chances of wearing out the one way sleeve is higher. It makes for easier maintenace and does away with the CA....

pic
2) Titanium Tail drive Shaft

For $15, u will not have to worry about snapping ur tail drive..... ( I know i used to destroy mine really fast cos i had the habit of piro'ing too much ...)... Also, the stock carbon tail drive will wear down and twist and fray which causes tail wagging in flight..... a point which most people never realise.....

How will this titanium upgrade help in a crash?

Let's say u stripped ur conical gear and ur bevelled tail output gears... On the stock carbon dive shaft setup... u'd have to painfully remove the gears .... most of the time, u'll end up ruining the stock carbon shaft ends as well...... and the bearings are a B@#$! to remove from the tail drive..... With the titanium shaft, u simply use the GWS micro pinion puller and the gears can be removed easily everytime... becuase we're using epoxy to attach them on.. not CA....

Also.. the stock carbon tail drive shaft is under 2mm .... so even if u manage to acquire 2mm rods.... u still have to sand them down to fit the bearings snugly....

Update: An even Cheapo method..... if u do not want to buy the titanium drive shaft.... when ur'e done Ca'ing the bearings in place on the tail drive shaft, coat all the exposed areas of the carbon shaft with CA.... this will reduce the the amount of twisting of the carbon fibres in the carbon drive shaft.... and will reduce chances of u losing the tail in pirouttes.....
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

3) Some Extra 2mm hex screws

Head to a hardware shop and ask for some 16mm and 12 mm long 2mm hex screws... U'll need these on a) main blade grips b) brass insert screws

#1 Athough the instruction manual says u should locktite the brass insert screws when screwing in the main blade grips... DUN DO IT It'll allow u to dismantle the whole rotor head faster if u need to. And it doesn't make a difference withthe locktight.

#2 Look for some 2mm nuts as well...... use the 12mm screws to replace the stock 8mm brass insert screws.... place the nut in between the two main blade grip bearings.... VIOLA --> BLADE TRACKING MOD + PERFORMANCE MOD ----> NO MORE flapping blades in FF.....

#3 This isn't a crucial mod but for those who like their blade grips TIGHT (hehehhehe) Replace the stock 12mm blade mounting screws with these 16mm ones and secure the blades with some normal or nyloc nuts....
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

Duzi One Way Wins .... MS-one way Sux..???

4) MS One-Way hub...
U'll need a drill and some small screws... and a bench vice..... Mark out crosses at 90 degrees to the original holes drilled out on the hub.... make sure lines joing these two holes instersect the lines joining the oriignal holes at the center! This gives us 2 more holes on the stock hub allow us to cross tighten the screws making the allowing the main gear to run through or straight.....http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/att...s=&postid=29837
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

Protecting ur conical Gear

5) Now that we have fixed on of the other cos of terrible vibes in the main gear ....... We need to strengthen the conical gear .... It's perfectly fine the way it is... infact the stock setup is the smoothest to run..... but i'm a cheapskate... and am always trying to minimise crashcost..... hold up ur whole tail assy, take out ur medium Zap... CA or super glue ( we need those of runny consistency here) and cover ur whole CONICAL GEAR SURFACE ONLY with CA! BE SURE NOT TO GET IT ANYWHERE ELSE! Immediately hold ur out ur tail boom assy by mid section firmly, and fling the excess CA off the conical gear as fast as u can... Wait to let it dry.... U now have toughened and stiffened conical gear surface... U only need to do this one... I tried a second coat but the gear meshing was not so good.......
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
TooLy
Senior Heliman
Location: Israel

....

Were I can find Titanium Tail Drive Shaft?

~Roei~
01-04-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

The Best Bell crank in the world for $5

6) For those of you who are nuts about smoothness grab all the phonecards, old credit cards... plastic cards u can find..


one word says it all... i call it the phone card bell crank

U'll need to double up the phone card,, use a 2mm ID 6mm OD flanged bearing... the top end of a ball link and some good quality CA...

...
After some research i found 2 things....
It's impt to keep the input arm 2x the length of the output arm.... the angle both arms make is a smaller issue.... on the stock .

Stock Input arm length of bell-crank: 21mm

Stock output arm length of bell-crank:
10.5mm

Use a marker to mark out the lines and points, and ream out the holes using a reamer ....

http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/att...s=&postid=29858
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

CNC tail fin for $1?

CNC tail fin for $2? Make the card is expired.... cut out ur favourite designs using a heated penknife.... Easy and fun job..... To strenthen, double up cards or stick a 1mm or 1.5 mm carbon rod.... i think it's best not to make it too stiff ....:L too stiff already but break too easily:L

Pics
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

cheapo ways of weighting old blades

this should have been point number 1



7) The non-updated or older hornet kits do not come with weighted blades.... ...... Thank goodness for Fit's idea... Credit goes to Fit as well as Eric Larson who put the weighting tape idea in his head...... but Fit put the tape on the LE of the blade... whateva it is.. this was my best birthday gift from Fit....


WEighted blades in 5 minutes... Get a roll of cloth tape ( those reinforcd threads innit)

Key point 1)... only start adding tape before the half way point of the blade... that' means if the blade is 25cm long.... the tape has to be only about 11cm long... and only tape the LEADING EDGE of the blade...... I used two layers

Key point 2) The emphasis here is not only to make the blade heavier but to increase the swing momentum of the blade.. this mod will fail IF u foil up keypoint 1 badly and start taping all over the place.....

When done right Ur blades will not drain too much power in flight.... and the tracking's spot on for the blades..... no more boom strikes with BH mixer installed! Fit's blades were 12g after this mod.... the blades in the pic are mine and had a total of 2 inch less tape on each blade

pic
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
ThePitchedLink
Heliman
Location: Canmore, AB

Hey theses sound great, thaks for posting them, but I have some quiestions. What kind of tape are you using for the blades? Is it weighted tape? or isthe tape just holding the weights on? Also, why are we drilling out the auto hub? I think I understand that you want to tighten the pin that holds the hub to the shaft. Is this a source of vibration? thanks for the tips.

BTW, I heard one the other day that I haven't tried yet. Sounds like you can use arrow shafts to replace the tail boom. Sounds like 1713 is the size that fits, but I have not tried so can't say for sure.
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AFrotorhead
Senior Heliman
Location: Las Vegas, NV

I'm looking for H2 boom material too... I put a post in a Maxir thread(do a search to find the Maxir on here, I think it's in general electrics)...Anyway, I was looking for dimensions for the Maxir boom. It looks to be the same, probably just longer and it's $10 less than the MS boom($24). Just need someone with the ID and OD of the Maxir to let us know.
01-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

The Maxir Boom is stated as 8mm... well,the Hornet 2 boom is less than 8mm.... I'm, using a plastic caliper so it may not be too accurate....I've bought an 8mm carbon boom before i can never get the stock bearings to fit in..... I've not tried arrow shafts before... but some in my club have tried them with success for the hornet 1... is there a ~7.85mm arrow shaft?


That tape isn't weighting tape... If u could get lead or weighting tape it would be better, but i think it's more expensive..... u know in the movies when someone is kidnapped they used to tape the mouths and arms.. i think it's the same tape..


The stock auto hub kit that comes uses a short steel pin... if u crash real badly u might ruin the sleeve and hub all together if this pin hits the hub also.... [although it seems the newer stock now come with hardened sleeve options for the smae price and I've seen the sleeve slicing away at the steel pin] Also, my hornet mentor told me that his pins flew out a couple of times while he was flying.....With the body pin clip, the clip wraps around the sleeve as well so there's no chance of it flying out in flight...


Oh I'd like to extend my thanks to 2 people online: Walt and Eric who were a constant source of inspiration and help.
01-05-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

Ball Raced Tail Grips for $10USD with some elbow grease

8) It's actually possible to splice trex tail blade grips onto the hornet... I've to admit the idea isn't completely mine...i'd to stare very hard at Duzi blade grips before i'd any idea of how to do the mod..... for the grip spacers any 2 equal spacers with 2mmID and 3mmOD will do... u'll need to ream or drill out 0.8mm holes for the pins ...... Enjoy!

pics

pics
01-07-2005 Over year old.
 
 
RotorX
Key Veteran
Location: London

Some great info there, Blade-X

Were I can find Titanium Tail Drive Shaft?

thanks
01-07-2005 Over year old.
 
 
elta68
Senior Heliman
Location: Zurich - Switzerland

here is the rich man's hornet 2

http://waltercedric.com/Mambo/index...d=185&Itemid=65

in fact I have sold some parts aquire from hornet bought on ebay, so the prices is going down (well below $560), add the favorable exchange rate of dollar-euro...
anyway I like Your tips a lot! really, You are all very creative where I have only buy some aftermarket parts.

Will try the weight mod blade as soon as the mounting is finished....

thanks

best regards, [url]http://www.waltercedric.com[/url] caliber 30 sections
01-07-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Blade-X
Senior Heliman
Location: Singapore

By request

RotorX,
The metal tail drive shaft is an alloy of aluminium and titanium.... I got mine from my LHS .. U can reach them at www.hobby-shack.com..... I think the part number is MS417, I only know it's the more expensive of the two when compared to the carbon tail drive....shaft
01-09-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AFrotorhead
Senior Heliman
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Just did some H2 DIY fixes myself
1. Went to the Pro Bass shop to get a carbon fiber arrow shaft for the tail boom. You can't buy just one, but, they gave me a broken arrow from their archery range for free. It's a perfect fit and alot stronger than the MS boom= Saved $24
2. Got $2.50 6"x11"x2mm plastic sheet for tail fin. Didn't save much over the stock, but, it's stronger and I can design it to look like I want. Plus there's plenty of stock left to make more if needed. Did save about $8 over the CF fin.
3. Looked for something to use as a clamp instead of CAing the tail fin to the boom. Couldn't find anything, then looked up from my computer and noticed the wall clamps for the coaxial for my cable. Perfect fit and doesn't look all that bad either=Saved about $8.50
4. Paid $1.39 for 4 collars with set screws from LHS(think they were for plane landing gear). Using them for flybar balance weights. Perfect fit= Saved about $5

From now on I will always try and improvise on my H2. Bitchin about prices doesn't seem to do any good!
01-15-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Bg_
Senior Heliman
Location: Penn. State U.

Quote 
Looked for something to use as a clamp instead of CAing the tail fin to the boom. Couldn't find anything, then looked up from my computer and noticed the wall clamps for the coaxial for my cable. Perfect fit and doesn't look all that bad either=Saved about $8.50



Wall clamps? got a pic? Or where do you get em? Not sure what they look like.
01-16-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AFrotorhead
Senior Heliman
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Sorry, no digital cam...They are small, white, U looking clamps... I looked at Home Depot for them, they have them, but, not as good as the ones the cable company installed...Probably couldve found something better, but, these don't look bad at all...I'll see if I can't get ahold of a cam.
01-16-2005 Over year old.
 
 
mattijs
Senior Heliman
Location: Keerbergen Belgium

I have flown my hornet with mainbladeholders on the tail. You only have to remove the balls and drill a small hole were the 1mm pins go in.

You can attach the tailblades in the mainbladeholders with two spacers on each side to fix them in the middle.

The added lenght of the tail makes for insane piro speeds.

I haven't thorougly tested this idea and only flew it 10 times or so in a confined space. I now have real bearing tailbladeholders from heliup but i actually like mine more from a functional point of view as the heliup ones have pins that are too long. The result is that they don't allow the pitch slider to disengage in a crash which always makes it brake.
01-17-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
AFrotorhead
Senior Heliman
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Here's that poormans fin, clamp and boom. Sorry, had to take it with the poor man's camera.....a scanner.

01-31-2005 Over year old.
 
 
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e-MS Composit Hornet > Tricks of the Trade: Poor Man's Hornet 2
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