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Ace Hobby . Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC

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e-Align T-REX 250-450-500-600 > T rex setup and flying
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Just finished setting my T -rex up and noticed it flies totally different than the zoom. I had been flying the zoom for about 3 months don't know how to explain with me being new to the sprot anyway but it seemed very touchy and does not seem to fly in the same manner as the zoom. I started off with all my travels at 100% but the only way I could calm it down a bit was to take channels 1&2 aileron and elevator down to like 45% and both ends, is this normal?

I can't quite pinpoint what it is, but in hoovering it seemed like I was constantly overcorrecting it because I was making big hover circles. Does any of this sound familar to you? Wondering if they all do this or just me? Do all different helis behave this way. I expected once I learned to hover and fly the zoom that the rex would not be that different. I feel like I'm learning for the first time all over agian.

I have the great planes g2 simulator can anyone recommend a good heli off of it to fly? The one I have been using is the gas 3D dolphin , but even it seems way easier than the rex.

Here is what I'm using and settings.

Himax 2025-4200 8t like 90 pinion
CC-25 (gov high)
3 hitec 56's and an expert sl 115 on tail
Futaba 7 channel CHP radio
Gy 240 Heading hold on
Apogee 3c 1570mah packs
Pitch curve 0-25-50-75-100
Throttle 0-35-65-65-65-65 ( getting the red light on esc on takeoff to hover)
No pitch guage but by looks around -6 to +6

Appreciate any adivce.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
mapmanufacturer
Senior Heliman
Location: Bunker Hill, WV

Yes you are correct . I had to turn mine down also to like 50% the helicopter seems very touchy on the controls . I would think that the T-Rex would be alot better to learn on then the zoom because the T-rex is alot heaver . What kinda flight times and how hot is your motor getting?
12-19-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Cant really say for sure on flight times. As nervous as I am with this setup I'm only hovered it and no fwd flt. As I mentioned on the esc light coming on on takeoff so I don't really know when my packs are too low. I hover around for 5-7 minutes and then land to let my nerves calm down. Put them back on charger and they usually take 8 or 900 mah out of a 1570 pack. Temps on packs are just warm and not hot. Have a laser temp and will check pack and motor temps later...
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
AshleyDavis
Senior Heliman
Location: Southampton, UK

This is fairly normal. Make sure you are using the inner most holes on your servo control horns and dial in 30-35% expo. That seems to do the trick. Don't touch the end points (ATV), you don't need to.

Ashley.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Not exactly sure what you mean by dial in 30-35% expo?

Are you saying then I need to leave the servo travel at 100%?
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
AshleyDavis
Senior Heliman
Location: Southampton, UK

Yeah, leave the servos at 100% travel. Then (if you radio has the option) use exponential on channels 1 & 2 to make the control movements softer around center stick. Expo is usually set in percentages, I'm using 30% expo on mine and it's very well beahved in the hover. This means you can hover very precisely but when you really pull on the sticks you still get the whole contol movement. If you use end point adjustment you just dumb down the whole machine and you don't want to do that as it will make it sluggish for rolls/loops, 3D etc etc.

Ashley.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Thanks Ashley, got some temps. After 5 minutes of hovering batt pack was at 110 f and motor was 140f. Looks like my rotor speed is at 2130. I guess I need to pick up a couple hundred. I'm using 8t pinion do you think it was help get the extra headspeed by switching to a 9. I'm unable to use the pinions in the kit since they are for a bigger dia shaft.

By the way, that did help by moving those rods in closer. controls feel better.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
AshleyDavis
Senior Heliman
Location: Southampton, UK

The 9T will certainly increase the headspeed but it will probably also increase both of your temps. Are your lipos really only 3C?......that only gives you a continous amp draw of 4.7amps, you must be pulling about 8amps with your current setup (a guess based on others figures). No wonder your pack is getting hot.

Ashley.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Sorry what I meant was they are 3cell. Apogee are rated at 10.5 which for me is 16.5A and burst 5 to 10 seconds 14c or 22A. Knowing that would you go with the 9t? Reading now in my manual how to do exp for heli.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Also do you really think that is hot for a pack? I have seen others range 140-160F. I thought that was actually pretty cool considering. They are just warm to the touch.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
AshleyDavis
Senior Heliman
Location: Southampton, UK

Yeah, try the 9T, a little extra headspeed should give you some more stability, 2400-2700 is about the range, I run 2400.

Ashley.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
AshleyDavis
Senior Heliman
Location: Southampton, UK

Warm to the touch is fine. My 1320mah pack runs about the same temp as yours.

Ashley.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Does this sound about right on the expo? Reading my manual I will have to assign switches to do this. Switch A will be elevator, I had to program one side a %, I assume I want a negative % since I want it to be less sensitive around neutral. So I did -30% to both sides of elevator and -30% to both sides of aileron for starters. This sound about right, now whenever I want the luxury of expo I simply move my switches down to the on positon.

This sort of seems like dual rates to me.
12-19-2004 Over year old.
 
 
jackheli
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver - Canada

Yep, the T-Rex responds very quickly to cyclic inputs. THAT IS WAS IS NICE ABOUT IT.

You will appreciate this characteristic when you start doing stunts.

For now, just add 35% Expo on both cyclic channels. As you get used to flying it, you can lower your expos.

It is very easy to tame a heli, but try getting the Zoom to be as lively as the T-Rex.



Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new - Albert Einstein
12-20-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Kwan
Senior Heliman
Location: Los Angeles

Hi,

I am new to the e-scene but consider myself fairly seasoned in the liquid versions. One of my t-rex sports the following...450x, 315 woodies, Align 400L, 15T, TP 4s 2100, cc35, HV-UBEC, 401, Hitec Electron6, and 4-Futaba 3103

After a few flights, I am wondering...with the head speeds we are spinning, does anyone sense that the t-rex or other micro helis in general have a gyroscope type feel to them? In other words...due to the high headspeeds, the heli only responds after almost full cyclic travel has been inputed, then when the heli responds, it responds with almost an explosive type feel to it, thus resulting in the regularly commmented edgy feel. It took the flybar paddles almost full deflection to overcome the gyroscopic momentum to affectuate a directional move.

IMHO, if any of the blade manufacturers are listening, please make blades that have a fairly wide chord and generous profile for these micro helis, because that would in turn reduce the headspeeds necessary to generate the same amount of lift upside or down...

Kwan

[color=blue][u][b]Couch potato have rights too![/b][/u][/color]
12-20-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Jarod
Veteran
Location: USA

To help answer part of your question concerning the red light on the ESC. I have had the same problem. This is what I have been told by people who seem to know these things inside and out. The red light is coming on letting you know that the ESC is at full throttle. Im guessing your settings for the throttle type have the auto calibration selected. I was told that when you arm your ESC it trys to auto calibrate the thottle. If you throttle up without going full throttle the auto calibration sets the end points incorrectly. The red light is telling you that its at 100% power. I know its confusing to try and understand why it does that? I set my throttle type to fixed and the light never comes on now. Im not flying 3D so i was told that this is a better setting for my flying style anyway. So far i like the change. I seem to get more consitent hovering points with the stick now. If anyone else knows how to use auto calibrate without the light coming on I would like to know.
12-20-2004 Over year old.
 
 
jackheli
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver - Canada

I think you may be using the wrong pinion. The 400L is 2500kV? What timing are you at?

Normally you would use a 13T on a 2800kV, so I guess you may have been loading your motor, and while applying cyclic there is not much juice left to control the head.

I would try an 11T and go from there.

My T-Rex responds to cyclic input in a flash!

Only MO.



Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new - Albert Einstein
12-20-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Jack are you sure you are responding to the right post? My motor is a himax 2025-4200, nothing like you just described. I using a 9t pinion.

Jarod, you nailed it perfect. That is exactly what I did with my esc. A buddy of mine told me to switch to the fixed position and here is the rest of his email below. The machine flys great now that I did this and worked my expos where they need to be.

P-25 red light means it is at 100%, so it sound like you need to adjust the ATV (travel limit) in your radio. Here how to do it. Remove main and t/r blades. Temporarly set you throttle curve to 0-25-50-75-100. Set your travel limit to about 25%. While holding heli (keep clear of flybar) move stick slowly to wide open. If the red light comes on before full stick travel, set limit lower. If you reach full stick travel without the light coming on, then increase travel limit (with stick still high) untill the light comes on. Move the stick back down, unpulg heli and plug it back up. Check it for the red light at or near full throttle again, adjust as needed. I also had to adjust the travel limit at low throttle to get full stop. Doing this sets your travel limit in you radio to match the range within the P-25.

My buddy sent this when I was working on my zoom and I did the same with the T rex, what an improvement. Give it a try.

Thanks for all the input guys
Opfor
12-20-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Opfor
Senior Heliman
Location: Loudon, Tn

Forgot to mention, switched to 9t pinion and got the headspeed up to 2330 from 2130 with an 8t. Getting 7 minutes easily with 1570 apogee pack. It takes about 1200 to fill it back up so about 76% drained. Will probably keep it at 6 just to try to save the batt life. Head speed makes a big improvement, I never would have believed it had I not felt it. Packs are only getting around 120f not too bad.
12-20-2004 Over year old.
 
 
jackheli
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver - Canada

Ops!

too many browser windows open.

Sorry about that.



Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new - Albert Einstein
12-20-2004 Over year old.
 
 
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Mikado Modellhubschrauber . GrandRC . CanoMod

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e-Align T-REX 250-450-500-600 > T rex setup and flying
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